The last days in Kathmandu have rushed by in a haze of sightseeing and saying goodbye. I'm not sure what my emotions are, I'm sad to be leaving but feel my journey is complete.
I finally got to the monkey temple with it's fine views of the Kathmandu valley and it's place in history as the hilltop on which the Buddha preached. It seemed a fitting end to my time here.
I met up with Fletch again, and Laura from Pokhara, we all leave on three consecutive days, with me in the middle.
I have achieved so much here personally that I'm really happy with myself, I've felt pain like never before, exhilaration, frustration, fear and exhaustion. I've been pushed beyond what I thought I was capable of, and forced to look inside myself in a way like never before.
Not a day wasn't worthwhile, there was always something new to do, see or taste, or someone new to meet.
I won't miss the toilets, the pollution in Kathmandu or the sickness, but I'll miss Nepal and it's people, and I'll miss the excitement of travelling.
Obviously I am going back to my old life, different in at least one way I hadn't expected, but I'm better equipped now to deal with that at least.
Fletch left today, and I'm taking Laura out tonight for last night drinks, and, well it had to be - Dhal Bat!
The ribs have become really painful again so I'm going to have to see the doc as soon as I get home, I'm worried what the damage is and disappointed that they prevented me from some of the things I wanted to do. However this opened up new opportunities, for which I am grateful.
Si and Liz probably won't believe I've added a touch of organisation to my life, and Gabe I'm sure would have loved to watch me pack! Gabe - it's all folded and in sections and I didn't just shove my arm across my bed and scoop it all in - honest!!!
So, home tomorrow, the adventure is over and there are new challenges to face, an empty flat, a single life again, and Storm - the new IT at work. So at least it'll be busy and occupy me while I settle back down. I'm dying to see the family too and can't wait to spend time with my nieces.
I saw a Christmas tree today, I guess I missed Autumn!
Oh, and yes I know there's a missing 12 days in Pokhara. It's difficult to write about as it was the only time I didn't make notes, and it's a time when there are moments I'd rather forget. But I'll fill in the blanks back in the UK.
Wednesday 24 November 2010
Saturday 20 November 2010
Things can only get better 20/11 Pokhara to Kathmandu
Pokhara to Ktm.
Cold on the bus, but good views of Annapurna, almost as if hidden by a curtain. Just outside Pokhara the local bus in front of us goes over the side, rolls, and slides down a really steep slope. People go down to help and I grab a first aid kit off an American girl and slide down. There's a couple of people beyond help, I go to start CPR on one kid then realise there's no ambulance to come. A man comes round from behind with a young child of maybe 6, and I take her up the slope. She's covered in blood but it's not hers, and she appears to be in shock only. An old woman sits next to me with pleading eyes, she has a large open gash to her head, there's no glass I can see so I mop it up and bandage her, getting blood all over my clothes. A trekking guide comes to help, and we get her, the child and an old man onto our bus, and I sit on the floor and mop him up. He seems to have a depressed fracture to his cheek, all I can give him is two paracetamol and the packet to show when he gets to hospital.
We drop them off there, then we head off for breakfast. The trekking guide thanks me for my compassion privately and says all the other westerners just watched. It's a sorry thing really, and I feel some guilt I couldn't have helped more people.
The rest of the journey is thankfully uneventful as we travel our bumpy way through the mountains back to Kathmandu. I return to Wonderland with it's swamp view and fog chorus, and as I check in I remember the excitement of heading out for Lukla and I'm a little bit sad. The adventure is coming to a close, and i know now what I'd been dreading, I'm going home single, it's going to be a tough adjustment.
I'll blog about the missing days in Pokhara soon. Clbomg wall tomorrow to take out some frustration!
Cold on the bus, but good views of Annapurna, almost as if hidden by a curtain. Just outside Pokhara the local bus in front of us goes over the side, rolls, and slides down a really steep slope. People go down to help and I grab a first aid kit off an American girl and slide down. There's a couple of people beyond help, I go to start CPR on one kid then realise there's no ambulance to come. A man comes round from behind with a young child of maybe 6, and I take her up the slope. She's covered in blood but it's not hers, and she appears to be in shock only. An old woman sits next to me with pleading eyes, she has a large open gash to her head, there's no glass I can see so I mop it up and bandage her, getting blood all over my clothes. A trekking guide comes to help, and we get her, the child and an old man onto our bus, and I sit on the floor and mop him up. He seems to have a depressed fracture to his cheek, all I can give him is two paracetamol and the packet to show when he gets to hospital.
We drop them off there, then we head off for breakfast. The trekking guide thanks me for my compassion privately and says all the other westerners just watched. It's a sorry thing really, and I feel some guilt I couldn't have helped more people.
The rest of the journey is thankfully uneventful as we travel our bumpy way through the mountains back to Kathmandu. I return to Wonderland with it's swamp view and fog chorus, and as I check in I remember the excitement of heading out for Lukla and I'm a little bit sad. The adventure is coming to a close, and i know now what I'd been dreading, I'm going home single, it's going to be a tough adjustment.
I'll blog about the missing days in Pokhara soon. Clbomg wall tomorrow to take out some frustration!
Thursday 18 November 2010
6/7/8 11 Kathmandu - the waiting game.
The sixth is our last day, Ken and Gabe sort laundry and are in a bit of a tizz when it appears the bloke then shuts up and goes home for the weekend. It's another festival here and everything is on a go slow.
We eat out, and Kristin and I return to Paddys for a few drinks, where we meet Gabe's pilot for the next, also entertainingly drunk, accompanied by two friendly Thai girls.
We get lost walking back to Shakti, and I fall over for a change, and we promptl wake Dave and IngeElin up for no apparent reason.
The next day is a blur of goodbyes and moving hotels, Dave and I back to Wonderland, everyone else heads out home.
I feel a bit down, and for the ext two days wander Thamel, bored and aimless, trying to figure out what to do. it's festival, everywhere is closed. My plan to do a couple of days volunteering melts away as all the schools are shut too. It's a bit of a lowpoint really, so much excitement, and then suddenly everyone is gone and we're back in transition.
My rib is incredibly sore now, and no matter how I lay I have difficulty sleeping, and have to get up and go out at 7.30am so I don't keep waking Fletch up. I'm listless and lethargic, and should really go to Swyambruth, or do something, but I struggle to find the energy. I'm tired from trekking, worried about a few things at home and missing the group dynamic. But on the 9th Fletch and I are moving on to Pokhara, and the change of scenery should inject some life into the nxt part of the Nepal tour.
We eat out, and Kristin and I return to Paddys for a few drinks, where we meet Gabe's pilot for the next, also entertainingly drunk, accompanied by two friendly Thai girls.
We get lost walking back to Shakti, and I fall over for a change, and we promptl wake Dave and IngeElin up for no apparent reason.
The next day is a blur of goodbyes and moving hotels, Dave and I back to Wonderland, everyone else heads out home.
I feel a bit down, and for the ext two days wander Thamel, bored and aimless, trying to figure out what to do. it's festival, everywhere is closed. My plan to do a couple of days volunteering melts away as all the schools are shut too. It's a bit of a lowpoint really, so much excitement, and then suddenly everyone is gone and we're back in transition.
My rib is incredibly sore now, and no matter how I lay I have difficulty sleeping, and have to get up and go out at 7.30am so I don't keep waking Fletch up. I'm listless and lethargic, and should really go to Swyambruth, or do something, but I struggle to find the energy. I'm tired from trekking, worried about a few things at home and missing the group dynamic. But on the 9th Fletch and I are moving on to Pokhara, and the change of scenery should inject some life into the nxt part of the Nepal tour.
4 & 5/11 Namche to Lukla / Lukla- to KTM
Sangay leads us on the last day, the long walk back to Lukla. It's a sad day, although we're reunited it's the last day of trekking, and the end of the journe is now in sight.
In fact it's in sight nearly all day as we watch the plans coming into land at the world's most extreme airport.
Despite this it never seems to get any nearer! We chat as we walk, enjoying the forests and the improved oxygen supply at this elevation! We pass a memorial to a plane that crashed a few years ago a reminder to me that I have one small hurdle to cross - the flight out, and after what seems an eternity of walking we reach the village.
Sangay offers to show us his monastery but we're all beat. It's a negative I regret, even as I write my notes up,because I think he was very excited that Lon had shown an interest.
We are late at the lodge, it's nearly dark as we walk down the side of the airstrip, and it's not long before we have black tea and Finjo joins us.
Tonight's the last supper, a communal meal of Dal Bhat with everyone, porters, guides and the team, with the table exceptions of Fletch and Barbara.
We all tuck in heartily and the beer starts to flow, tips are issued and speeches are made. Jim nominates me as the person who fell over the most, which is true by some wide margin!!!
The porters leave us for their homes after the meal, clutching large tips in appreciation of the important and incredible work they do. It's hard enough lugging a six kilo back around at 5400m on steep ground in the freezing cold, I cannot conceive what it is like to do so with two 15kg or so packs, in flip flops or converse trainers like this guys do. One of them is no more than 4ft11 tall, and is as strong as an ox. It's really incredible. Without them we couldn't have got as far as we did, and they do it all with huge smiles on their faces and never a complaint.
The guides, Finjo, Nima and Sangay all stay for what starts off as a few drinks. We're told we're in outside rooms as another group is having a party and will be noisy and we have a 5.30am flight. That's not quite how it works out.
At midnight Ken, Kristin, IngeElin and I and the three guides are the only people awake in the lodge, incredibly dunk dancing to a mixture of Nepali music and Norwegian pop. It's a great evening, really good fun, with arm wrestling, and Nima doing an entertaining dance that mimics my everlasting cough. I put him in a gooseneck hold, which he immediately wants to learn, and later I recall doing squats with Finjo Sherpa over my shoulders. Which probably does my ribs no good - but I'm not letting a little thing like that spoil what has been an incredible experience.
I share with Ken and have an incident involving a bin and a total lack of navigational ability, and before you know it we have to get up for our flight.
I struggle with breakfast, which of curse Lon doesn't - and am glad I don't have too long to sit and stress about the flight.
On the Twin Otter we are taxied past the crashed plane and then held at the top of the runway while the pilot winds up the elastic band. Then he takes his feet off the floor and we zip forward like some crazy fairground ride, before plummeting off the side of the mountain, gaining lift and heading back to Kathmandu.
Back at Shakti Ken offers to let me go in with Dave who is already back, and probably regrets his kindness as they all wait several hours for rooms to become available. There's lots of tired smelly hungry people about when I emerge clean and fresh from the shower.
There follows a day of mooching about and cleaning up before our evening party at Kilroy's. I get to eat fish and chips, which isn't bad at all, and we all have great fun joking about the joys of trekking.
Ken, Gabe, Fletch, IngeElin, Kristin and I take Finjo and his friend to Paddys after, where we listen to a Nepali rock cover band and get stuck into the tequilas in a big way. Unfortunately someone tells Finjo it's water and he gets a bit enthusiastic in his consumption. This later contributes to an unfortunate incident with the police and a slightly sad exit from the evening's entertainment.
There'll be some hangovers tomorrow.
In fact it's in sight nearly all day as we watch the plans coming into land at the world's most extreme airport.
Despite this it never seems to get any nearer! We chat as we walk, enjoying the forests and the improved oxygen supply at this elevation! We pass a memorial to a plane that crashed a few years ago a reminder to me that I have one small hurdle to cross - the flight out, and after what seems an eternity of walking we reach the village.
Sangay offers to show us his monastery but we're all beat. It's a negative I regret, even as I write my notes up,because I think he was very excited that Lon had shown an interest.
We are late at the lodge, it's nearly dark as we walk down the side of the airstrip, and it's not long before we have black tea and Finjo joins us.
Tonight's the last supper, a communal meal of Dal Bhat with everyone, porters, guides and the team, with the table exceptions of Fletch and Barbara.
We all tuck in heartily and the beer starts to flow, tips are issued and speeches are made. Jim nominates me as the person who fell over the most, which is true by some wide margin!!!
The porters leave us for their homes after the meal, clutching large tips in appreciation of the important and incredible work they do. It's hard enough lugging a six kilo back around at 5400m on steep ground in the freezing cold, I cannot conceive what it is like to do so with two 15kg or so packs, in flip flops or converse trainers like this guys do. One of them is no more than 4ft11 tall, and is as strong as an ox. It's really incredible. Without them we couldn't have got as far as we did, and they do it all with huge smiles on their faces and never a complaint.
The guides, Finjo, Nima and Sangay all stay for what starts off as a few drinks. We're told we're in outside rooms as another group is having a party and will be noisy and we have a 5.30am flight. That's not quite how it works out.
At midnight Ken, Kristin, IngeElin and I and the three guides are the only people awake in the lodge, incredibly dunk dancing to a mixture of Nepali music and Norwegian pop. It's a great evening, really good fun, with arm wrestling, and Nima doing an entertaining dance that mimics my everlasting cough. I put him in a gooseneck hold, which he immediately wants to learn, and later I recall doing squats with Finjo Sherpa over my shoulders. Which probably does my ribs no good - but I'm not letting a little thing like that spoil what has been an incredible experience.
I share with Ken and have an incident involving a bin and a total lack of navigational ability, and before you know it we have to get up for our flight.
I struggle with breakfast, which of curse Lon doesn't - and am glad I don't have too long to sit and stress about the flight.
On the Twin Otter we are taxied past the crashed plane and then held at the top of the runway while the pilot winds up the elastic band. Then he takes his feet off the floor and we zip forward like some crazy fairground ride, before plummeting off the side of the mountain, gaining lift and heading back to Kathmandu.
Back at Shakti Ken offers to let me go in with Dave who is already back, and probably regrets his kindness as they all wait several hours for rooms to become available. There's lots of tired smelly hungry people about when I emerge clean and fresh from the shower.
There follows a day of mooching about and cleaning up before our evening party at Kilroy's. I get to eat fish and chips, which isn't bad at all, and we all have great fun joking about the joys of trekking.
Ken, Gabe, Fletch, IngeElin, Kristin and I take Finjo and his friend to Paddys after, where we listen to a Nepali rock cover band and get stuck into the tequilas in a big way. Unfortunately someone tells Finjo it's water and he gets a bit enthusiastic in his consumption. This later contributes to an unfortunate incident with the police and a slightly sad exit from the evening's entertainment.
There'll be some hangovers tomorrow.
Saturday 13 November 2010
3/11 Namche. Rest Day.
Up late at 8, check mail... Again.... Stuff I feel needs sorting out, and I miss the outside world!!
After brekkie we go shopping, we find a bakery and have fantastic coffee and cakes. We finally get news that Lon and IngeElin summited and we're all incredibly pleased for them. They had to summit and get down to Dengboche, then today they're repeating our yomp from yesterday. They'll be slaughtered when they get here, and will have to finish with another long day to Lukla.
I sit on a wall for a while watching the rescue helicopters which seem to fly in a steady stream, and u smile at the slow people wandering up.
Kristin, Ken and I go shopping after lunch again and get more cakes. I buy presses for B, and we all fall about when a stray cow goes in the massage shop, abd doesn't come out.
Sangay appears from Lukla at three abd then the summiteers arrive.
I'm not as congratulatory as I should be, I'm distracted, and I sit and read while Kristin thrashes everyone at blackjack, and Lon eats everything in sight.
I have Sherpa stew which is delicious, the others all have yak steak, thier first meat in 3 weeks.
I go through the good wishes on facebook, although I'm not as disappointed as people think I might be. I'm content, I face it everything, and think I would have done it but for the AMS.
For me, the journey has been incredible, I know now the limits I can push myself to, and what I can achieve.I know now I'm strong enough to overcome any hurdle, abd I know I've got some I'm going to deal with when I get back to the UK!!
"in mountains we find what we seek, be it peace or violence, beauty or terror"
After brekkie we go shopping, we find a bakery and have fantastic coffee and cakes. We finally get news that Lon and IngeElin summited and we're all incredibly pleased for them. They had to summit and get down to Dengboche, then today they're repeating our yomp from yesterday. They'll be slaughtered when they get here, and will have to finish with another long day to Lukla.
I sit on a wall for a while watching the rescue helicopters which seem to fly in a steady stream, and u smile at the slow people wandering up.
Kristin, Ken and I go shopping after lunch again and get more cakes. I buy presses for B, and we all fall about when a stray cow goes in the massage shop, abd doesn't come out.
Sangay appears from Lukla at three abd then the summiteers arrive.
I'm not as congratulatory as I should be, I'm distracted, and I sit and read while Kristin thrashes everyone at blackjack, and Lon eats everything in sight.
I have Sherpa stew which is delicious, the others all have yak steak, thier first meat in 3 weeks.
I go through the good wishes on facebook, although I'm not as disappointed as people think I might be. I'm content, I face it everything, and think I would have done it but for the AMS.
For me, the journey has been incredible, I know now the limits I can push myself to, and what I can achieve.I know now I'm strong enough to overcome any hurdle, abd I know I've got some I'm going to deal with when I get back to the UK!!
"in mountains we find what we seek, be it peace or violence, beauty or terror"
The curtain starts to fall....
Left Dengboche just after 8am. Hajaramah left a present for Barbara with Jim which was touching. It's one hell of a walk today, through Dengboche then Thangboche with it's incredible monastery. We tramp downhill through stunning forests, the first time we've been below the treeline for days. We have tea at Pangboche and push on in sunshine. There are blue gentian in flower and the smell of pine and rhododendron in the air. Ever down now, Kristin hiding behind me from yaks, which I'm now confident enough to shove out of the way - until I come face to face with one on a suspension bridge and have to turn and run back the way I came, much to Neema's amusement. By the time we leave Phunky Thanga I'm in a bad mood. I think all the oxygen in the air is making bits of my brain that had been out of commission work again!! The pace is too quick and I take a couple if spectacular falls. My ankle, which I sprained just before I came out doesn't feel strong, and it collapses very easily if not well balanced. After lunch it's a 900m climb back into Namche. The fog comes in and the wind covers us in dirt. Not that it matters, I'm filthy anyway and stink like a yak. We pass by a crazy dude galloping along the narrow path on a horse, and finally, at last we get to Namche. I'm last, but this time because I stopped to watch Nepal's national bird, the Monar, grubbing around in a field in good numbers. The male is like a pheasant, with seven colours, some iridescent.
We have tea and biscuits and wait for the porters, mine and Kristin's are last as one of them had to run back to help another one who had got sick. He's so apologetic it's painful, so we give him a biscuit. The dining area is full of Germans so I don't hang about, and I go and check emails. It's nice to hear from B again, it's been hard being away from her. Kristin and I sit and chat and she has a beer, I resist the temptation and go to bed at 8 with her taking the piss loudly in the background. Our rooms are thinly divided and we keep each other awake shuffling in our bags, she farts incredibly loudly for a woman - if you're reading this you know it's true......
Then with mind racing about things at home, Gabe snoring and mice running around I lay awake for ages. Gabe takes a great pic of me all hunkered down in the bag, propped up by various bits of clothing.... And finally I sleep!
We have tea and biscuits and wait for the porters, mine and Kristin's are last as one of them had to run back to help another one who had got sick. He's so apologetic it's painful, so we give him a biscuit. The dining area is full of Germans so I don't hang about, and I go and check emails. It's nice to hear from B again, it's been hard being away from her. Kristin and I sit and chat and she has a beer, I resist the temptation and go to bed at 8 with her taking the piss loudly in the background. Our rooms are thinly divided and we keep each other awake shuffling in our bags, she farts incredibly loudly for a woman - if you're reading this you know it's true......
Then with mind racing about things at home, Gabe snoring and mice running around I lay awake for ages. Gabe takes a great pic of me all hunkered down in the bag, propped up by various bits of clothing.... And finally I sleep!
Thursday 11 November 2010
Himalayan Nights
I wake at 8, the lodge is fantastic here, and Sangay gets me to try hot seabuckthorn instead of wake up tea. It's a local fruit, and is really nice. I eat some apple porridge, and look across at Imja, through the window, with the sun at my back. I have three days to recover and gain my strength. Sangay suggests I try some light hiking to try and acclimatise again, the diamox has ben giving me pins and needles in my feet, and it makes it uncomfortable to walk, but I'll give it a go.
I ask him about medication for my chest, and he seeks out another MMA guide, and they chat in Nepali. I clearly hear them talking about HAPE, and then I am told there is no medication - just rest. Yesterday Jim had ben keen for me to go to Periche, which is a hospital on the way yo Dengboche, but Finjo wouldn't hear of it. He feels that they would have medivaced me back to KTM without really checking me over as they have some kind of deal wiyj yje rescue chopper. They know my insurance would cover it. Anyway, I sit in silence for a bit as I realise it could have been a lot more serious than I realised. I'm not entirely sure what they were talking about, but if I did have, or come close to having HAPE then I am lucky to be sitting here typing!
Gabe arrives at the lodge and the news is not good. He's come back after a night of being ill and tired. The lodges at Lobuche were rammed and no-one ha been well. Fletch is very sick indeed, and was to be sent down, but changed his mind. Ken sat up all night with him I learn later, while he tried to manage Chaine-Stokes episodes. He also spent two hours in the decrompression bag in an effort to get more oxygen into him. Gbae also says both the girls have had an off fay too. It's good to have Gabe back though, he's been such a help - even folding my sleeping bag when I was too feeble to do it one morning.
I take him round Dengboche but he's clearly shattered and goes top bed. There's a no day sleeping rule, but we've all had to break it.
In the lodge there's lots of pictures nad mountain gear layiong around. There's an ice-ax with 'Hilary 1953' on it, which I think is a hoax until I discover that the man smiling out of all the pictures with Sir Ed is none other than the lodge owner himself, Sonma Hishi Sherpa. A bit of a legend in these parts apparently.
As I wirte this, I see Imja again and I decide to go to Base Camp. and chuck everything at it if I have a good sleep there. It's daunting, but not as daunting as Ama Dablam which rises out of the river opposite. It's fearsome, and also beautiful. I can also see the south face of Lhotse, so step little snow sticks to it, Cholatse and a host of other peaks.
I spend the afternoon reading, and Gabe sleps fully dressed in his bag! After 5 hours in bed he's still really tired, so I go and find Sangay and sit and cha5t with him, and he writes in my notebook - a little something to make me smile and also to make me think.
Later we watch the imax film about Everest in the company of one of the guides for the expedition, a man who had been talking to me over lunch about my cough, and giving me some advice. By the end of the film he has a glass full of Rakshi, and eyes full of tears.
28/10
Another day of recuperation. Hiked up the hill to the Gompa for some aweesome views, and I can look back to Chola, and see just how far I managed to walk a couple of days back. The views are stunning. I spent some expensive time catching up on emails, washing (at last!!) and reading. I mailed Bernie to say I had been a little bit ill, not wanting to worry her. I figure I'll tell her before I blog. It wouldn't be a nice way to find out how close things seemed to be.
Sangay tells me that a flock of birds that fly past are penguins, which makes me chuckle, and at 1600 the whole team arrives. No-one went to EBC, and hardly anyone bothered with Kala Pattar. Fletch looks shot. The schedule is tight and there's no time to recover once you are ill.
I'm feeling better, and despite being sick I am loving it here, the views, the walking, and just the whole experience. It's tough but you find things out about yourself on the way!
At the Gompa and picked out B's name in stones and sat looking at Imja. I realised I didn't care anymore if I climbed it. The journey has become the main thing, noit the result. I have been able to get away from the stresses of home and put my mind straight. The sickness has focused me too.
It's a nice evening as part of the team again, he play cards and chat and Fletch says he's pretty much decided to quit. It's sad he feels like that, but I can see why. I'm going to carry on for now, but I had more rest thaNn he did. He hasn't slept for 4 days and just doesn't have it left any more. I manage to get him to eat some of my fruit cocktail, and he crams down some Pringles. I hope he sticks around.
29/10
Fletch quits. He's had enough. He's been sick for too long and needs to go down. He seems happy to go and we'll see him in KTM, but I'm sorry he's going because he's a good bloke and good company. We don't do anything today, I sunbathe, while the others wrap up in down jackets. it's not COLD people!! Lon has amusing incident where Finjo is trying to find him and he's on the toilet. It ends upo with Lon shouting 'I am taking a f***ing crap' at some poor trekker who was waiting outside the toilet to use it. Early to bed, 6 hour yomp tomorrow......
30/10 Dengboche to Base Camp
Strike out at 9, after dumoping as muchg gear as I dare, I feel strong and working well. Everything is good until we reach Chukkung, then it happens again. I am coughing, and it gets so harsh I start coughing up blood again. It's not much but it's annoying. My lips go blue then crack, and my nose is peeling. I can hardly drink anything and the whole thing is miserable.
We watch a chopper circling Ama Dablam, which is bad news, and as Jim and I notice, there's lenticular cloud over Lhotse and Pumori, which is really bad news.
We reach base camp around 1600, set up gear bags and muck around with plastic boots. We all congregate in the mess tents and eat the best food I've had in Nepal. Except, my appetite is going again. I know I'm unlikely to climb.
The night passes sleeplessly, I have to pee maybe a hundred times, but I least I get to see the amazing skies. I have never sen so many stars. It's sad though, my heart is racing, my chest is pounding and I feel like I asm drowning all night. I have a constantly running nose, and a cake of blood and snot at the back of m,y throat. I'm living the dream!
Gabe moans about his fleece liner feeling like a coffin, then falls asleep, while I lay there wishing I was at home with Bernie.
30/10
I bail this morning. I have had enough. Finjo tries to get me in the gammow bag, but 2 hours in there, or two hours walk to Chukkung...... I tell him I'm quitting. I know it's the right thing, I have no strength. I'm gutted and I feel a bit of a failure, but I really want to go home in one piece, and the desire to fo that is greater than the desire to climb.
I'm suprised when Ken and Jim bail too, the cloud base has plummeted and it's snowing hard. The four remaining may not even get the chance to climb tonight if the weather continues. Neema is so happy to be coming fown with us he dances around base camp and then shoots off so fast we have to almost run to keep up. We have to call him back at Chukkung so we can have tea. Ken and I walk round and get yak attacked, and take a few pictures of the snow, but we're pretty subdued.
I am thinking of home, and my friends on the mountain, and what I want to do with life when I get back. I am sad to come down but when you are hallucinating, sneezing blood, can't eat or sleep and have most of your face peeling off it's time to come down. My high point is about 16500ft, higher than anywhere in western europe and most of the US. I have walked in the footsteps of giants, slept in lodges where my heroes have stayed, seen amazing things, meet awesome people and answered questions about myself. I am now one of those going down, but I am going down a different person. I am no longer one of the pained faces going up, and my load will be a lot lighter.
1/11
Finally sleep. It's a beautiful thing. I had a beer last night, my first in thre weeks, and I quietly toast those on the hill. It's 8 am when we wake and there's a deep layer of snow. The team should be on the fixed rope now, but Neema thinks they won't climb. We wait for news. It has warmed uyp from about 15 below last night, and Harjaramah is revelling in looking after us. I've done email and caught up with friends and the good lady herself, which cheers me up no end. I pack gear ready for the off tomorrow. Three more days and we're back in Lukla, the tear in my throat seems to be healing, and there's no blood now.
1400 - no sign of the others and no news, we're still waiting.
1600 - Gabe and Kristin arrive with news of a terrible night in which the tents were blown around and they had to shout to speak to each other. No-one went up, but IngeElin and Lon have stayed to have a go tonight. This means tomorrow we're out of Dengboche, but will have to walk further - Namche - something like 9 hours away, finishing with a climb of about 800m. Which is annoying. It's never easy in the mountains!!!
I ask him about medication for my chest, and he seeks out another MMA guide, and they chat in Nepali. I clearly hear them talking about HAPE, and then I am told there is no medication - just rest. Yesterday Jim had ben keen for me to go to Periche, which is a hospital on the way yo Dengboche, but Finjo wouldn't hear of it. He feels that they would have medivaced me back to KTM without really checking me over as they have some kind of deal wiyj yje rescue chopper. They know my insurance would cover it. Anyway, I sit in silence for a bit as I realise it could have been a lot more serious than I realised. I'm not entirely sure what they were talking about, but if I did have, or come close to having HAPE then I am lucky to be sitting here typing!
Gabe arrives at the lodge and the news is not good. He's come back after a night of being ill and tired. The lodges at Lobuche were rammed and no-one ha been well. Fletch is very sick indeed, and was to be sent down, but changed his mind. Ken sat up all night with him I learn later, while he tried to manage Chaine-Stokes episodes. He also spent two hours in the decrompression bag in an effort to get more oxygen into him. Gbae also says both the girls have had an off fay too. It's good to have Gabe back though, he's been such a help - even folding my sleeping bag when I was too feeble to do it one morning.
I take him round Dengboche but he's clearly shattered and goes top bed. There's a no day sleeping rule, but we've all had to break it.
In the lodge there's lots of pictures nad mountain gear layiong around. There's an ice-ax with 'Hilary 1953' on it, which I think is a hoax until I discover that the man smiling out of all the pictures with Sir Ed is none other than the lodge owner himself, Sonma Hishi Sherpa. A bit of a legend in these parts apparently.
As I wirte this, I see Imja again and I decide to go to Base Camp. and chuck everything at it if I have a good sleep there. It's daunting, but not as daunting as Ama Dablam which rises out of the river opposite. It's fearsome, and also beautiful. I can also see the south face of Lhotse, so step little snow sticks to it, Cholatse and a host of other peaks.
I spend the afternoon reading, and Gabe sleps fully dressed in his bag! After 5 hours in bed he's still really tired, so I go and find Sangay and sit and cha5t with him, and he writes in my notebook - a little something to make me smile and also to make me think.
Later we watch the imax film about Everest in the company of one of the guides for the expedition, a man who had been talking to me over lunch about my cough, and giving me some advice. By the end of the film he has a glass full of Rakshi, and eyes full of tears.
28/10
Another day of recuperation. Hiked up the hill to the Gompa for some aweesome views, and I can look back to Chola, and see just how far I managed to walk a couple of days back. The views are stunning. I spent some expensive time catching up on emails, washing (at last!!) and reading. I mailed Bernie to say I had been a little bit ill, not wanting to worry her. I figure I'll tell her before I blog. It wouldn't be a nice way to find out how close things seemed to be.
Sangay tells me that a flock of birds that fly past are penguins, which makes me chuckle, and at 1600 the whole team arrives. No-one went to EBC, and hardly anyone bothered with Kala Pattar. Fletch looks shot. The schedule is tight and there's no time to recover once you are ill.
I'm feeling better, and despite being sick I am loving it here, the views, the walking, and just the whole experience. It's tough but you find things out about yourself on the way!
At the Gompa and picked out B's name in stones and sat looking at Imja. I realised I didn't care anymore if I climbed it. The journey has become the main thing, noit the result. I have been able to get away from the stresses of home and put my mind straight. The sickness has focused me too.
It's a nice evening as part of the team again, he play cards and chat and Fletch says he's pretty much decided to quit. It's sad he feels like that, but I can see why. I'm going to carry on for now, but I had more rest thaNn he did. He hasn't slept for 4 days and just doesn't have it left any more. I manage to get him to eat some of my fruit cocktail, and he crams down some Pringles. I hope he sticks around.
29/10
Fletch quits. He's had enough. He's been sick for too long and needs to go down. He seems happy to go and we'll see him in KTM, but I'm sorry he's going because he's a good bloke and good company. We don't do anything today, I sunbathe, while the others wrap up in down jackets. it's not COLD people!! Lon has amusing incident where Finjo is trying to find him and he's on the toilet. It ends upo with Lon shouting 'I am taking a f***ing crap' at some poor trekker who was waiting outside the toilet to use it. Early to bed, 6 hour yomp tomorrow......
30/10 Dengboche to Base Camp
Strike out at 9, after dumoping as muchg gear as I dare, I feel strong and working well. Everything is good until we reach Chukkung, then it happens again. I am coughing, and it gets so harsh I start coughing up blood again. It's not much but it's annoying. My lips go blue then crack, and my nose is peeling. I can hardly drink anything and the whole thing is miserable.
We watch a chopper circling Ama Dablam, which is bad news, and as Jim and I notice, there's lenticular cloud over Lhotse and Pumori, which is really bad news.
We reach base camp around 1600, set up gear bags and muck around with plastic boots. We all congregate in the mess tents and eat the best food I've had in Nepal. Except, my appetite is going again. I know I'm unlikely to climb.
The night passes sleeplessly, I have to pee maybe a hundred times, but I least I get to see the amazing skies. I have never sen so many stars. It's sad though, my heart is racing, my chest is pounding and I feel like I asm drowning all night. I have a constantly running nose, and a cake of blood and snot at the back of m,y throat. I'm living the dream!
Gabe moans about his fleece liner feeling like a coffin, then falls asleep, while I lay there wishing I was at home with Bernie.
30/10
I bail this morning. I have had enough. Finjo tries to get me in the gammow bag, but 2 hours in there, or two hours walk to Chukkung...... I tell him I'm quitting. I know it's the right thing, I have no strength. I'm gutted and I feel a bit of a failure, but I really want to go home in one piece, and the desire to fo that is greater than the desire to climb.
I'm suprised when Ken and Jim bail too, the cloud base has plummeted and it's snowing hard. The four remaining may not even get the chance to climb tonight if the weather continues. Neema is so happy to be coming fown with us he dances around base camp and then shoots off so fast we have to almost run to keep up. We have to call him back at Chukkung so we can have tea. Ken and I walk round and get yak attacked, and take a few pictures of the snow, but we're pretty subdued.
I am thinking of home, and my friends on the mountain, and what I want to do with life when I get back. I am sad to come down but when you are hallucinating, sneezing blood, can't eat or sleep and have most of your face peeling off it's time to come down. My high point is about 16500ft, higher than anywhere in western europe and most of the US. I have walked in the footsteps of giants, slept in lodges where my heroes have stayed, seen amazing things, meet awesome people and answered questions about myself. I am now one of those going down, but I am going down a different person. I am no longer one of the pained faces going up, and my load will be a lot lighter.
1/11
Finally sleep. It's a beautiful thing. I had a beer last night, my first in thre weeks, and I quietly toast those on the hill. It's 8 am when we wake and there's a deep layer of snow. The team should be on the fixed rope now, but Neema thinks they won't climb. We wait for news. It has warmed uyp from about 15 below last night, and Harjaramah is revelling in looking after us. I've done email and caught up with friends and the good lady herself, which cheers me up no end. I pack gear ready for the off tomorrow. Three more days and we're back in Lukla, the tear in my throat seems to be healing, and there's no blood now.
1400 - no sign of the others and no news, we're still waiting.
1600 - Gabe and Kristin arrive with news of a terrible night in which the tents were blown around and they had to shout to speak to each other. No-one went up, but IngeElin and Lon have stayed to have a go tonight. This means tomorrow we're out of Dengboche, but will have to walk further - Namche - something like 9 hours away, finishing with a climb of about 800m. Which is annoying. It's never easy in the mountains!!!
Monday 8 November 2010
26 October Tagnak-Dzongla-Dengboche. 12 hours.
The best and worst of days.
e set out just after four AM, a line of headlamps twinkle under star-filled Himalayan skies. The moon lights the peaks, and ice crunches underfoot. There is no other sound except the laboured breathing of climbing at 4800m. It's -15, but I'm really happy. There is a call of 'bistare, bistare' as I walk behind Neema, matching his pace. 'Slowly, slowly'.
We climb steadily, past snowcocks, and across frozen scree. We've left early to make sure the rocks are frozen hard to each other, so there's no danger of rockfall on the incredibly steep parts.
We reach the top of the first pass after a while without too much trouble, and I look out across the plateau towards Cho La. We have to lose a lot of height then regain it.
I start to cough again, it's a hard raking cough, the sort that tears throats and breaks ribs. I smash the ice on the top of my water bottle and drink hard, ice chunks and all. The air is crystallising as I breathe and I'm vaguely aware of the blood and snot that has frozen into my beard. I can't eat again. It's harsh but if i can't eat something will have to give. I can't carry on and I know it.
We descend to the plateau and pick our way across boulders the size of houses, Ken is sick of the rocks, they make iot really tough even on the flat ground. We gradually start to climb, it's stunning here but I don't have the energy for photographs.
It's one foot in front of the other now, nothing more, I can't get enough water on board, and I am now coughing up eevrything bad I have breathed in during the last 40 years. Great lumps of orange muck are coming out, streaked in blood.
he next section focuses me though, it's immense. Possibly three hundre vertical feet of scrambling on frozen and exposed rock. This would be hard at 1000m, but at 5000 it's incredible. I'm right at my limit, good holds disintegrate with a tinkle of breaking ice and then a crack as the rock breaks. It's exciting and all consuming. Total focus is needed tom prevent a small error becoming a big one, and I have a couple of moments where my feet scrape around on the verglass looking for purchase.
Four arms suddenly reach out and haul me onto the top. It's precipitous but awesome. This is it. Cho la. I made this one too. The view is incredible. I suck in the view and slump against what apears to be a safe rock. I cough really hard and vomit again.
I realise I might get pulled from the team here, I am really sick and i just can't get better Finjo tells me we'l need to talk when we get down to Dzongla, he's worried about my cough. I stare at Ama Dablam for a bit and fight back my emotions. I don't want to go down, or leave the team, but I don't have anything left.
Ken again tells me I've got balls, but all I can think is 'I don't belong here.' I'm scared. A porter died of a chest infection when we came out, and I have no idea if that's what I have. There's not much medical care up here.
We start to descend towards the ice field, passing the bergshrund. There's a short downclimb to a crevasse field. Sangay tries to position my foot on a hold as I face into the rock and climb down. 'Dude, the one thing I don't need help with is rock climbing,' I blurt out. I'm frustrated, but he laughs and slaps me on the back and lets me get on with it.
Ken and I joke as we cross the ice, we have no crampons and he's never walked on ice before, but it's me that fals over again. We stop for a team phot in among the crevasses, and for a while I'm loving it, this is where I am happiest.
As we descend to Dzongla though I start to fall behind.I can hardly walk. Gabe stays with me and gives me water, a kidness I find humbling in the circumstances. Every so often I sit on a rock and vomit.
I eventually reach the lodge, and collapse again. Finjo talks to me. I'm either going in the decompression bag or descending to Dengboche, which should be a safe altitude for me. He's the leader and I respect him. I'm not going in the bag though. I hear him tell the porters to sort my bag out from the rest, but I'm too upset to stop him. Kritin takes my temperature, which seems ok. Someone puts some boiled potatoes in front of me, and Fletch tells me later that I pick one up and stare at it as if I don't know what it is. I eat a couple and give the rest to Finjo. Kristin tires to make me eat, but I just can't. Finjo peels a potato and gives it back to me to eat. It's bland and rubbish.
No-one says much, I think they know how I feel, and after a hour or so walking down the trail they go off to Lobuje and eventually to Kala Pattar and EBC, I have to go down.
I have seen the map and know we've got a long way to go. Sangay puts my 15kg duffel on top of his pack and off we go. I turn to look back, Kristin waves, but I don't react and just walk off.
I have to drag out another six hours walking, Snagy and I taking turns in pace-setting. It starts to get cold. Very cold. It's foggy adn realy windy. We can see maybe 20ft, and we justy have to keep moving. Sangay is freezing and I can't feel my toes again. It takes forever, we only just reach Dengboche before it's dark. Sangay's nose has seperated from his face in one corner because of the cold and my ear is all blistered. My nose has windburn and my lips are cracked and peeling. Sangay sorts a room and I just sit in the corner coughing and feeling like shit.
Sangay has kept my spirits up talking about wildlife and buddhist philosophy. he talks about my life, and makes me think about a few things.
A woman comes over and asks if i am ok, which is kind, but it's clear I'm not. Sangay tries to get me to eat, but I can't. I keep falling asleep sitting up, and by 7 he's got me into my sleeping bag. I am utterly spent. I came here to find my limits, and I really have done that today. And some. After 12 hours of trail beating, rock climbing, crevasse crossing and coughing up various parts of my insides the tank is finally empty. I sleep for 13 hours.
e set out just after four AM, a line of headlamps twinkle under star-filled Himalayan skies. The moon lights the peaks, and ice crunches underfoot. There is no other sound except the laboured breathing of climbing at 4800m. It's -15, but I'm really happy. There is a call of 'bistare, bistare' as I walk behind Neema, matching his pace. 'Slowly, slowly'.
We climb steadily, past snowcocks, and across frozen scree. We've left early to make sure the rocks are frozen hard to each other, so there's no danger of rockfall on the incredibly steep parts.
We reach the top of the first pass after a while without too much trouble, and I look out across the plateau towards Cho La. We have to lose a lot of height then regain it.
I start to cough again, it's a hard raking cough, the sort that tears throats and breaks ribs. I smash the ice on the top of my water bottle and drink hard, ice chunks and all. The air is crystallising as I breathe and I'm vaguely aware of the blood and snot that has frozen into my beard. I can't eat again. It's harsh but if i can't eat something will have to give. I can't carry on and I know it.
We descend to the plateau and pick our way across boulders the size of houses, Ken is sick of the rocks, they make iot really tough even on the flat ground. We gradually start to climb, it's stunning here but I don't have the energy for photographs.
It's one foot in front of the other now, nothing more, I can't get enough water on board, and I am now coughing up eevrything bad I have breathed in during the last 40 years. Great lumps of orange muck are coming out, streaked in blood.
he next section focuses me though, it's immense. Possibly three hundre vertical feet of scrambling on frozen and exposed rock. This would be hard at 1000m, but at 5000 it's incredible. I'm right at my limit, good holds disintegrate with a tinkle of breaking ice and then a crack as the rock breaks. It's exciting and all consuming. Total focus is needed tom prevent a small error becoming a big one, and I have a couple of moments where my feet scrape around on the verglass looking for purchase.
Four arms suddenly reach out and haul me onto the top. It's precipitous but awesome. This is it. Cho la. I made this one too. The view is incredible. I suck in the view and slump against what apears to be a safe rock. I cough really hard and vomit again.
I realise I might get pulled from the team here, I am really sick and i just can't get better Finjo tells me we'l need to talk when we get down to Dzongla, he's worried about my cough. I stare at Ama Dablam for a bit and fight back my emotions. I don't want to go down, or leave the team, but I don't have anything left.
Ken again tells me I've got balls, but all I can think is 'I don't belong here.' I'm scared. A porter died of a chest infection when we came out, and I have no idea if that's what I have. There's not much medical care up here.
We start to descend towards the ice field, passing the bergshrund. There's a short downclimb to a crevasse field. Sangay tries to position my foot on a hold as I face into the rock and climb down. 'Dude, the one thing I don't need help with is rock climbing,' I blurt out. I'm frustrated, but he laughs and slaps me on the back and lets me get on with it.
Ken and I joke as we cross the ice, we have no crampons and he's never walked on ice before, but it's me that fals over again. We stop for a team phot in among the crevasses, and for a while I'm loving it, this is where I am happiest.
As we descend to Dzongla though I start to fall behind.I can hardly walk. Gabe stays with me and gives me water, a kidness I find humbling in the circumstances. Every so often I sit on a rock and vomit.
I eventually reach the lodge, and collapse again. Finjo talks to me. I'm either going in the decompression bag or descending to Dengboche, which should be a safe altitude for me. He's the leader and I respect him. I'm not going in the bag though. I hear him tell the porters to sort my bag out from the rest, but I'm too upset to stop him. Kritin takes my temperature, which seems ok. Someone puts some boiled potatoes in front of me, and Fletch tells me later that I pick one up and stare at it as if I don't know what it is. I eat a couple and give the rest to Finjo. Kristin tires to make me eat, but I just can't. Finjo peels a potato and gives it back to me to eat. It's bland and rubbish.
No-one says much, I think they know how I feel, and after a hour or so walking down the trail they go off to Lobuje and eventually to Kala Pattar and EBC, I have to go down.
I have seen the map and know we've got a long way to go. Sangay puts my 15kg duffel on top of his pack and off we go. I turn to look back, Kristin waves, but I don't react and just walk off.
I have to drag out another six hours walking, Snagy and I taking turns in pace-setting. It starts to get cold. Very cold. It's foggy adn realy windy. We can see maybe 20ft, and we justy have to keep moving. Sangay is freezing and I can't feel my toes again. It takes forever, we only just reach Dengboche before it's dark. Sangay's nose has seperated from his face in one corner because of the cold and my ear is all blistered. My nose has windburn and my lips are cracked and peeling. Sangay sorts a room and I just sit in the corner coughing and feeling like shit.
Sangay has kept my spirits up talking about wildlife and buddhist philosophy. he talks about my life, and makes me think about a few things.
A woman comes over and asks if i am ok, which is kind, but it's clear I'm not. Sangay tries to get me to eat, but I can't. I keep falling asleep sitting up, and by 7 he's got me into my sleeping bag. I am utterly spent. I came here to find my limits, and I really have done that today. And some. After 12 hours of trail beating, rock climbing, crevasse crossing and coughing up various parts of my insides the tank is finally empty. I sleep for 13 hours.
Part 3 - Gokyo to Tagnak
Pretty easy walking today - thankfully, across the Dzongala glacier, no snow or ice but it's a bit hairy a few times dodging rockfall, and hearing the ground creaking and groaning under your feet.
Some of the route is up and down - this is Nepal, flat means 'little bit up, little bit down', and Neema leads today, at his usual blistering pace. This strings the group out a bit and eventually Ken and I lose sight of him. I have to free climb a rock the size of a house to see the top of his baseball cap somewhere in front, and eventually we're all re-united.
Tagnak is packed with people and there's not a lot of lodge space. The guy who runs the lodge is like a Nepali John Cleese. He shouts at me for putting my backpack somewhere he doesn't want it and generally marches around being stressed and rude.
I'm managing full meals today, but this has a downside now. I have to deal with the toilets, which are interesting to say the least. If you can bring yourself to actually enter one.
Fletch is sick and spends the day in bed. Gabe is exhausted, and also takes to his bed. I talk to Ken about turning abck and he laughs it off, and tells me he can't believe my stamina and guts and how I just carry on no matter what, without even whinging. Ken's a tough Aussie and he expects the poms to whinge. He reminds me I got to 5400m, without eating and suggests most people would have turned back by now. It's god to have him on the team.
He alaso tells me he works with the brother of a guy who tried to kayak from Australia to New Zealand, a flim Bernie and I saw at the Banff film festival on our second date. ig world, small world.
It's a lazy afternoon, and I have time to think. I iss Bernie like mad, but with no comms home I can't do anything about it. I wonder what she's up to, and wish i could hear or voice just for a few minutes. I'm also missing her paella, it's been a lon time since I ate anything other than spuds or Dhal Bat. I'm craving cheese pasties too.
We've got a massive day tomorrow, to teh summit of Cho La, another 5000m top. I take the opportunity of the afternoon off to wash in a bowl of water stripped to the waist outside the lodge, where I've been sunbathing. Comically one of the sherpas is sat in his down jacket and asks me if I'm not a little cold!!!
Some of the route is up and down - this is Nepal, flat means 'little bit up, little bit down', and Neema leads today, at his usual blistering pace. This strings the group out a bit and eventually Ken and I lose sight of him. I have to free climb a rock the size of a house to see the top of his baseball cap somewhere in front, and eventually we're all re-united.
Tagnak is packed with people and there's not a lot of lodge space. The guy who runs the lodge is like a Nepali John Cleese. He shouts at me for putting my backpack somewhere he doesn't want it and generally marches around being stressed and rude.
I'm managing full meals today, but this has a downside now. I have to deal with the toilets, which are interesting to say the least. If you can bring yourself to actually enter one.
Fletch is sick and spends the day in bed. Gabe is exhausted, and also takes to his bed. I talk to Ken about turning abck and he laughs it off, and tells me he can't believe my stamina and guts and how I just carry on no matter what, without even whinging. Ken's a tough Aussie and he expects the poms to whinge. He reminds me I got to 5400m, without eating and suggests most people would have turned back by now. It's god to have him on the team.
He alaso tells me he works with the brother of a guy who tried to kayak from Australia to New Zealand, a flim Bernie and I saw at the Banff film festival on our second date. ig world, small world.
It's a lazy afternoon, and I have time to think. I iss Bernie like mad, but with no comms home I can't do anything about it. I wonder what she's up to, and wish i could hear or voice just for a few minutes. I'm also missing her paella, it's been a lon time since I ate anything other than spuds or Dhal Bat. I'm craving cheese pasties too.
We've got a massive day tomorrow, to teh summit of Cho La, another 5000m top. I take the opportunity of the afternoon off to wash in a bowl of water stripped to the waist outside the lodge, where I've been sunbathing. Comically one of the sherpas is sat in his down jacket and asks me if I'm not a little cold!!!
part 2
Up early, and a long line of headtorches work their way down to the dining area. I ram a piece of toast in my mouth and wash it down with water, but can only just stomach it. We set out at about 430 in the dark. it's really cold as start to climb up the steep ground, and i already feel like my toes are freezing. The constant coughing is draining, and it's really uncomfortable as we climb, every breath is hard and every so often I have to stop. Fletch is stamping his feet and I am wriggling fingers as well now, trying to stop frostnip setting in, so it's a welcome relief when the sun starts to come up.
We reach the twin lakes, which are stunningly beautiful, and I remember to look back ast the mountains above Lungden. I try to eat a Strepsil, and vomit it straight back up. I manage to force down a glucose tablet, and we move onto easier ground, where I remove some layers, and take another glucouse tablet.
Five hundred metres above us are the prayer flags of the summit, but the ground is incredibly steep. In places steps are cut into the rock, and it helps, but I'm now climbing in a daze, no-one is speaking, there's just the soun of hard breathing and coughing. We zig zag up but the prayer flags never seem to come any closer.
I am trying to keep a bandana over my face to warm and moisten the air I am breathing, but it feels like it is suffocating me. I pull it off and try and fix it to my pack with a 'biner, but I can't work out how to do it. My brain knows, but the signals to my hands seem to be messed up. I feel punch drunk, and my knees have gone like a new born foal's. I slump back against a rock and Finjo tries to take my pack. I refuse. There's a stand off for a few seconds, then I try to stand up but nothing happens. Finjo unclips my pack and hands it to Sangay. I nod my appreciation, but feel gutted I am needing help so close to the top.
I start off again, unhindered by the 8kg that was on my back, and now it's four breaths and two steps, four breaths, two steps. The air is so thin it's tough to get enough oxygen. Kristin is behind me, and I try to let her pass, but she wants to stay behind me, probably using me to pace herself. 'This is the hardest day of my lie...' she breathes. This is a girl who has climbed Elbrus the highest mountain in Europe. I ask her if she includes Elbrus and she says 'Elbrus was nothing.'
Now Inge-Ellen has had her pack taken as well, she has stomach problems. I try to speak to her, but I just cough up a mixture of blood and gunk, and just try to keep moving. Then I realise I've only got 5 metres to go, and the power comes back on. Over my right shoulder, as I crest the ridge I see Everest. It's enormous. It towers over everything, it's snow streaked granite pyramid distinct and clear against the perfect blue sky. It's glorious. I'm pretty much overcome and lurch out onto the narrow ridge. I'm on top of Renjo at 5400 metres. I don't know how I have accomplished it.
I realise I'm no longer suffering from my usal fear of heights, and stumble around on top for a bit. There's lots of back slapping, hand shaking and a few tears. Lots of pictures are taken, and I sit and suck in the scene. Makalu, Lhotse and Everest dominate the horizon, and there on the left is the huge north face of Cholatse, crossed with seracs and hanging glaciers. One of the most technical climbs in the Himalaya.
I scramble up a bit of rock and put up the prayer flag I had blessed at Kopan before the others arrive, with a couple of names and some thoughts for the future on it. I think Finjo does puja with the others, and I cram inn a Snickers, which I promptly vomit back up. Then we're off. We've been here less than half on hour. But it's enough.
The slope down to Gokyo is steep and loose now it's no longer frozen, Gokyo seems so close, yet the drop is huge. We pick our way carefully down, but I'm too tired to think, and I fall. I skid along on my backside for a good 5 metres before Neema manages to grab my pack and stop me disappearing. I now have a limp and a brusied backside to go with the cough, and then I start sneezing blood.
Seven and a half hours after we leave Lungden we reach Gokyo. The lake is incredibly beautiful with it's glacial green waters standing out in the grey and brown of the rocks.
We get to the lodge and I collapse. It's pretty much and hour before I am aware of anything. I've gone to 5400m on nothing more than a slice of toast, some glucose and a half eaten Snickers.
Fletch's watch says we're burning about 5000 calries a day, and I think I've been eating around 200 for the last 4 days. Essentially I am eating myself. I'm losing weight like anything, and by now pretty much everyone else is sick too. Lon is vomiting through dehydration, and possibly hallucinating, accoriding to Ken.
I manage to eat that evening, a few roast potatoes and i start to feel a bit better. I have some fruit salad from a can. In the evening we go out and watch Co Oyu in the starlight, and take a few pics. It's freezing cold here but stunningly beautiful. I decide to press on, despite this being the ideal place to abandon the trip. Tomorrow should be an easier day on flattish ground, and if I can only eat I should be able to go on.
Finjo congratulates me on getting to the top, my previous high is only 1344m, 4000m below what I achieved today, and by far the lowest altitude any of the team had as a previous record. I'm pleased, content, happy, tired and relieved as I crash out.
One thing is for sure though, next time we go high in a few days I won't wear my trainers. They didn't feel that safe. :)
We reach the twin lakes, which are stunningly beautiful, and I remember to look back ast the mountains above Lungden. I try to eat a Strepsil, and vomit it straight back up. I manage to force down a glucose tablet, and we move onto easier ground, where I remove some layers, and take another glucouse tablet.
Five hundred metres above us are the prayer flags of the summit, but the ground is incredibly steep. In places steps are cut into the rock, and it helps, but I'm now climbing in a daze, no-one is speaking, there's just the soun of hard breathing and coughing. We zig zag up but the prayer flags never seem to come any closer.
I am trying to keep a bandana over my face to warm and moisten the air I am breathing, but it feels like it is suffocating me. I pull it off and try and fix it to my pack with a 'biner, but I can't work out how to do it. My brain knows, but the signals to my hands seem to be messed up. I feel punch drunk, and my knees have gone like a new born foal's. I slump back against a rock and Finjo tries to take my pack. I refuse. There's a stand off for a few seconds, then I try to stand up but nothing happens. Finjo unclips my pack and hands it to Sangay. I nod my appreciation, but feel gutted I am needing help so close to the top.
I start off again, unhindered by the 8kg that was on my back, and now it's four breaths and two steps, four breaths, two steps. The air is so thin it's tough to get enough oxygen. Kristin is behind me, and I try to let her pass, but she wants to stay behind me, probably using me to pace herself. 'This is the hardest day of my lie...' she breathes. This is a girl who has climbed Elbrus the highest mountain in Europe. I ask her if she includes Elbrus and she says 'Elbrus was nothing.'
Now Inge-Ellen has had her pack taken as well, she has stomach problems. I try to speak to her, but I just cough up a mixture of blood and gunk, and just try to keep moving. Then I realise I've only got 5 metres to go, and the power comes back on. Over my right shoulder, as I crest the ridge I see Everest. It's enormous. It towers over everything, it's snow streaked granite pyramid distinct and clear against the perfect blue sky. It's glorious. I'm pretty much overcome and lurch out onto the narrow ridge. I'm on top of Renjo at 5400 metres. I don't know how I have accomplished it.
I realise I'm no longer suffering from my usal fear of heights, and stumble around on top for a bit. There's lots of back slapping, hand shaking and a few tears. Lots of pictures are taken, and I sit and suck in the scene. Makalu, Lhotse and Everest dominate the horizon, and there on the left is the huge north face of Cholatse, crossed with seracs and hanging glaciers. One of the most technical climbs in the Himalaya.
I scramble up a bit of rock and put up the prayer flag I had blessed at Kopan before the others arrive, with a couple of names and some thoughts for the future on it. I think Finjo does puja with the others, and I cram inn a Snickers, which I promptly vomit back up. Then we're off. We've been here less than half on hour. But it's enough.
The slope down to Gokyo is steep and loose now it's no longer frozen, Gokyo seems so close, yet the drop is huge. We pick our way carefully down, but I'm too tired to think, and I fall. I skid along on my backside for a good 5 metres before Neema manages to grab my pack and stop me disappearing. I now have a limp and a brusied backside to go with the cough, and then I start sneezing blood.
Seven and a half hours after we leave Lungden we reach Gokyo. The lake is incredibly beautiful with it's glacial green waters standing out in the grey and brown of the rocks.
We get to the lodge and I collapse. It's pretty much and hour before I am aware of anything. I've gone to 5400m on nothing more than a slice of toast, some glucose and a half eaten Snickers.
Fletch's watch says we're burning about 5000 calries a day, and I think I've been eating around 200 for the last 4 days. Essentially I am eating myself. I'm losing weight like anything, and by now pretty much everyone else is sick too. Lon is vomiting through dehydration, and possibly hallucinating, accoriding to Ken.
I manage to eat that evening, a few roast potatoes and i start to feel a bit better. I have some fruit salad from a can. In the evening we go out and watch Co Oyu in the starlight, and take a few pics. It's freezing cold here but stunningly beautiful. I decide to press on, despite this being the ideal place to abandon the trip. Tomorrow should be an easier day on flattish ground, and if I can only eat I should be able to go on.
Finjo congratulates me on getting to the top, my previous high is only 1344m, 4000m below what I achieved today, and by far the lowest altitude any of the team had as a previous record. I'm pleased, content, happy, tired and relieved as I crash out.
One thing is for sure though, next time we go high in a few days I won't wear my trainers. They didn't feel that safe. :)
The best and worst of times.
18 October
Fully recovered, or so I think, I'm up at 4am to get the chartered chopper over to Lukla. Fletch and Ken get the first flight and the rest of us end up waiting until nearly 11 before we can leave. Partly because someone had to come and pump the tyres back up on the MIG. We're crammed in with all the gear and a party for Ama Dablam, and I mean crammed, I spend the whole flight with my legs above my had and partly wrapped round Kristin, with Gabe's 6ft 4 frame crammed in by the window. Pasang Sherpa is on the flight and is the guid for Ama Dablam. H's summited Everest 5 times, and we're all a bit in awe. Lon gets to chat to him at KTM before we depart.
The flight is pretty awsome once w are under way, and not really as scary as you'd think, just uncomfortable. Kristin does look she's praying as we come into land, which makes me chuckle. We have a massive lunch at Lukla and meet back up with Fletch and Ken, and then set out, walking past the plane that crashed into the wall at the top of the airport a few days ago. We climb up towards Phakding, which takes just over 3 hours, walking through forsts that must be incrdible in spring, jumping out of the way of the Zopkio - cow-yak hybrids that porter on the lower slopes, and I feel like I am living the dream!!
The lodge at Phakding is ok, Lon has to go in with his Mum and Dad as one of the rooms is a triple, me and Gabe share again and have a good laugh when he opens his porter-pack to find his shaving foam has gone for a proper burton everywhere. I'm going full yeti so I am not going to have that problem. The big issue is the toilet paper - we've been issued two rolls each for three weeks, and I have another visitation like I did at Kathmandu it won't last long. So, first night in a lodge at the Prince Everest, where we at chilli potatoes and chat before an early night. We've had the rules read to us - no meat or dairy above Namche, no beer, etc - all thought out to try and stop us getting sick. Fingers crossed.
19 October Phakding - Namche (7 hours)
Set out early on what starts as an easy walk up to Monjo, whre we would have started today had the flight not been so late. The going gets harder here and Barbara is finding it tough, but she's in her sixties so it's no suprise. She's a well known US author on Nepal, and her knowldge is great and really interesting, but it's hard to talk to her because of the difference in our paces. We go over Nepal's longst suspension bridge, hoping the Zopkio don't start coming the other way, and after lunch we then cross the highest, which Ken bounces to test my nerves, but I'm ok on it and we're soon over the Dudh Koshi, th milk river.
Namche never seems to come, as we near 3000m it gets really hard, Barbara is now in front, so she can set the pace, and as we reach Namche we are disappointed to find the first Everest viewpoint in thick cloud. We then have to climb through the village right to the top to reach the lodge. It's a long day.
19th October Namche Bazar
There's an annoying French guy here who looks Gerard Depardieu! We joke about the price of snickers, of which Fletch has a stash in his bag - he's the Snickers King of Phakding, or the Snickers Tsar of Namche Bazar, we're not sure. Lon demonstrates his eating prowess by clearing up all the leftovers, I've never seen anything like it, but he's fit. I caught him doing push ups at Phakding, god knows where he gets the energy, I'm feeling good and I'm in the mood for altitude.
20-23 October
Didn't get to see as much of Namche as I'd hoped, by the time we reached the lodge I just wanted to sleep. The next 'rest day' we set out on an acclimitisation hike to the Everest View Hotel, where we are rewarded with our first views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse and a little peek at Everest behind the clouds. We walk round to Kunde to see the yeti skull at the monastery and the hospital, where we met a girl I had seen yesterday. She was telling her guide she felt ill because she had 'never walked uphill before!!!' Hmmmm. Anyway I'm last back to the lodge, feeling drained and unable to eat. Which is annoying.
The next day we walk up to Thame, and all I can eat is a Mars bar. and a few glucouse tablets. I'm not worried though, sure it will pass. Pretty thrilled to be staying at Appa Sherpa's lodge - 21 times summiteer of Everest. The certificates are all round the walls, with oxygen bottles and other memorbillia. This is also the village that Tenzing Norgay came from.
We leave for Lungden the next morning, and I still can't eat. I'm also crapping water, and now I'm not sleeping. I don't remember much of the walk, except the views of Kasum Kangure, Kongde and then Cho Oyu - the first 8000er we see. I get to Lungden on stamina and energy I didn't know I had. The lodg is very basic, w're here for two days too. I manage to eat a bizarre mix of chapati, jam and chips so I can start on Diamox, which will hopefully stem the onset of the AMS I think I am getting. Fletch is getting sick too, but Finjo finds a yellow tablet which sems to help. The lodge is full of Japanese, who have bought their own cook tent and food, so they pay 10 times the lodge price. They're a strange lot. Sangay says 'walk slow, no bag... Japanese....'
The next day we rest up, a really welcom day. Gabe, Jim and I sit in the sun, while the others do some light hiking, I'm still not eating very well and don't join in the High Altitude Rounders. I go to my room to eat, where I cram in potatoes washd down with water. It's easier in the room, I don't feel like I'm putting the others off with my retching and coughing as I eat. Early to bed for an early start.
Fully recovered, or so I think, I'm up at 4am to get the chartered chopper over to Lukla. Fletch and Ken get the first flight and the rest of us end up waiting until nearly 11 before we can leave. Partly because someone had to come and pump the tyres back up on the MIG. We're crammed in with all the gear and a party for Ama Dablam, and I mean crammed, I spend the whole flight with my legs above my had and partly wrapped round Kristin, with Gabe's 6ft 4 frame crammed in by the window. Pasang Sherpa is on the flight and is the guid for Ama Dablam. H's summited Everest 5 times, and we're all a bit in awe. Lon gets to chat to him at KTM before we depart.
The flight is pretty awsome once w are under way, and not really as scary as you'd think, just uncomfortable. Kristin does look she's praying as we come into land, which makes me chuckle. We have a massive lunch at Lukla and meet back up with Fletch and Ken, and then set out, walking past the plane that crashed into the wall at the top of the airport a few days ago. We climb up towards Phakding, which takes just over 3 hours, walking through forsts that must be incrdible in spring, jumping out of the way of the Zopkio - cow-yak hybrids that porter on the lower slopes, and I feel like I am living the dream!!
The lodge at Phakding is ok, Lon has to go in with his Mum and Dad as one of the rooms is a triple, me and Gabe share again and have a good laugh when he opens his porter-pack to find his shaving foam has gone for a proper burton everywhere. I'm going full yeti so I am not going to have that problem. The big issue is the toilet paper - we've been issued two rolls each for three weeks, and I have another visitation like I did at Kathmandu it won't last long. So, first night in a lodge at the Prince Everest, where we at chilli potatoes and chat before an early night. We've had the rules read to us - no meat or dairy above Namche, no beer, etc - all thought out to try and stop us getting sick. Fingers crossed.
19 October Phakding - Namche (7 hours)
Set out early on what starts as an easy walk up to Monjo, whre we would have started today had the flight not been so late. The going gets harder here and Barbara is finding it tough, but she's in her sixties so it's no suprise. She's a well known US author on Nepal, and her knowldge is great and really interesting, but it's hard to talk to her because of the difference in our paces. We go over Nepal's longst suspension bridge, hoping the Zopkio don't start coming the other way, and after lunch we then cross the highest, which Ken bounces to test my nerves, but I'm ok on it and we're soon over the Dudh Koshi, th milk river.
Namche never seems to come, as we near 3000m it gets really hard, Barbara is now in front, so she can set the pace, and as we reach Namche we are disappointed to find the first Everest viewpoint in thick cloud. We then have to climb through the village right to the top to reach the lodge. It's a long day.
19th October Namche Bazar
There's an annoying French guy here who looks Gerard Depardieu! We joke about the price of snickers, of which Fletch has a stash in his bag - he's the Snickers King of Phakding, or the Snickers Tsar of Namche Bazar, we're not sure. Lon demonstrates his eating prowess by clearing up all the leftovers, I've never seen anything like it, but he's fit. I caught him doing push ups at Phakding, god knows where he gets the energy, I'm feeling good and I'm in the mood for altitude.
20-23 October
Didn't get to see as much of Namche as I'd hoped, by the time we reached the lodge I just wanted to sleep. The next 'rest day' we set out on an acclimitisation hike to the Everest View Hotel, where we are rewarded with our first views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse and a little peek at Everest behind the clouds. We walk round to Kunde to see the yeti skull at the monastery and the hospital, where we met a girl I had seen yesterday. She was telling her guide she felt ill because she had 'never walked uphill before!!!' Hmmmm. Anyway I'm last back to the lodge, feeling drained and unable to eat. Which is annoying.
The next day we walk up to Thame, and all I can eat is a Mars bar. and a few glucouse tablets. I'm not worried though, sure it will pass. Pretty thrilled to be staying at Appa Sherpa's lodge - 21 times summiteer of Everest. The certificates are all round the walls, with oxygen bottles and other memorbillia. This is also the village that Tenzing Norgay came from.
We leave for Lungden the next morning, and I still can't eat. I'm also crapping water, and now I'm not sleeping. I don't remember much of the walk, except the views of Kasum Kangure, Kongde and then Cho Oyu - the first 8000er we see. I get to Lungden on stamina and energy I didn't know I had. The lodg is very basic, w're here for two days too. I manage to eat a bizarre mix of chapati, jam and chips so I can start on Diamox, which will hopefully stem the onset of the AMS I think I am getting. Fletch is getting sick too, but Finjo finds a yellow tablet which sems to help. The lodge is full of Japanese, who have bought their own cook tent and food, so they pay 10 times the lodge price. They're a strange lot. Sangay says 'walk slow, no bag... Japanese....'
The next day we rest up, a really welcom day. Gabe, Jim and I sit in the sun, while the others do some light hiking, I'm still not eating very well and don't join in the High Altitude Rounders. I go to my room to eat, where I cram in potatoes washd down with water. It's easier in the room, I don't feel like I'm putting the others off with my retching and coughing as I eat. Early to bed for an early start.
Sunday 17 October 2010
Got a big chopper
Back at Airport looks like we're going up by helicopter. So.... We wait til maybe 1300 before they decide the weather is too bad even for the helicopter, then back to the hotel,and out for lunch. Another briefing later, but the feeling is we are shipping out at 5am by MIG1 helicopter. We'll see.
17 october
Sick sick sick. Didn't sleep all night and spent the morning slumped against the expedition gear at KTM airport waiting for the flight to Lukla. It hammered with rain here, and was even worse between the two so we abandoned ship and came back. Another new hotel, this one called wonderland. Spent all afternoon crashed out on the bed with a fever.
Finjo gave me some rehydration powder and I bought some coproximol in the supermarket, but I'm not up to dinner. Gabriella is turning into a top bloke, he's gone out to find me English food as I've only eaten a biscuit in 24hrs, I'm lucky to be rooming with him.
This would have been really difficult to deal with a few days back when I was on my own.
The American family seem to do their own thing, their son asks some odd questions like whether we can catch up the lost time by climbing 1000m of altitude in one day. Finjo put him straight. I missed the team briefing as I was in bed, but Gabe says if we can't get up to Lukla tomorrow we'll lose the Gokyo Ri climb, which is a shame but something will have to give.
Finjo Sherpa is also a bit of a star, he tells me a French girl in shorts at the airport "needs some company", he charges around organising hotels, tea, biscuits and is always smiling and laughing. He also climbs over grade 5, and carries the heaviest pack I've ever seen. The stories about these guys are true.
Finjo gave me some rehydration powder and I bought some coproximol in the supermarket, but I'm not up to dinner. Gabriella is turning into a top bloke, he's gone out to find me English food as I've only eaten a biscuit in 24hrs, I'm lucky to be rooming with him.
This would have been really difficult to deal with a few days back when I was on my own.
The American family seem to do their own thing, their son asks some odd questions like whether we can catch up the lost time by climbing 1000m of altitude in one day. Finjo put him straight. I missed the team briefing as I was in bed, but Gabe says if we can't get up to Lukla tomorrow we'll lose the Gokyo Ri climb, which is a shame but something will have to give.
Finjo Sherpa is also a bit of a star, he tells me a French girl in shorts at the airport "needs some company", he charges around organising hotels, tea, biscuits and is always smiling and laughing. He also climbs over grade 5, and carries the heaviest pack I've ever seen. The stories about these guys are true.
Friday 15 October 2010
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
Yeserday's dinner and cultural display was a blast, sat up with Ken for a beer after. Today we saw some sights, the stupa is pretty awesome, but the Hindu temple pretty much freaked me out. I didn't like them in India either. The Buddhist place is pretty peaceful, and we saw Thangka being made.
Took the guys round Thamel for lunch, and now we're all packing like mad to get our gear ready for our early flight tomorrow. So.... This is probably the last update for a while, tomorrow we head off into the high mountains.
Took the guys round Thamel for lunch, and now we're all packing like mad to get our gear ready for our early flight tomorrow. So.... This is probably the last update for a while, tomorrow we head off into the high mountains.
Yesterday
Decide to walk round to Shakti the new hotel, which probably wasn't a bright idea. I've got a backpack and I'm humping a suitcase along, and going through worse and worse neighbourhoods, until I eventually find it. It's really strange, it's a big neat and tidy 2 star job in the middle of this dumpy area. Maybe won't be walking in and out of here at night.
Was pretty hassled coming round, but managed to baffle one of the trek touts by offering him a trek round Dagenham for very good price, and very big discount as he is my friend. He now thinks Dagenham is beautiful and will probably tell that to anyone who comes from England now.
I'm sharing, haven't met my roommate yet, I'm figuring he's the Italian as he is called Gabriel, but you never know. It's pretty weird having to share, but we're going to all be in pretty close proximity for the next three weeks.
This place has a garden, most of the others have some sort of roof business, you can see quite a bit more sky here, there's a couple of what I think are Griffons circling really high up and hundreds of swift-type birds. They won't go hungry with all these flies that's for sure.
You have to pay the wifi here, 100NR for an hour, which a lot of other places do for free. Probably move on as soon as we get back, maybe up to Pokhara, which is a 7-9hr bus ride, but it's the best way to see a country and I'm here to see more than KTM and the himalaya.
Tonight we have the welcome dinner, I'm not really that bothered, sure it'll be lovely and all that, but I'm anxious and want to get moved on to the trek.
The number of goats tied up in the street is increasing. In a few days they'll be headless and in the pot. Imagine if we had to kill the Xmas turkey on the day before rather than get it prepacked from Tesco. Other turkeys are available from other good stores.
So Pradip the company boss turns up, and he says he can save some money if I do the guided tour of KTM tomorrow, I am a 'resident' and should know it very well. I tell him I do it for very good price.
We're now 9 for the trek, and 8 for the mountain, there's a girl who's leaving us before climbing. She's the only girl coming along. There's also another Brit Dave, which is actually a bit of a relief, although I am paired for now with the Italian. We're all meeting in a couple of hours for briefing and dinner. I've spent the day sorting gear, trying to work out what I need and what I don't. Pradip likes my boots. He's not getting them though!! I just have to get the flight out of the way.
One of the kids here who picks shit up and moves it around as far as I can tell is wearing a ball cap that he has very carefully written 'Nike' on in marker pen on the back, the front says 'Chuck's Mowers, Denver' or something. I'd love to see what would happen to a teenager who made his own Nike ball cap back home.
It's now raining hard, just in time for Dishanwy, just like Xmas at home.
Met up with the team, strange mix. Two Norwegians, girls who seem serious mountaineers, off to Anconcagua next yesr. Ken's an Aussie fireman and a top bloke, there's a family of Americans, where the parents have been here often, and my roomy Gab who is Italian and also here for his fortieth, seems a decent bloke. Think we're a good group, and we all enjoyed the cultural night, dancing and traditional Nepali food. One of the Norwegians is a nurse and I think we've all got a strong chance of a summit. Unless we drink much Rakshi. Then we'll all die.
Was pretty hassled coming round, but managed to baffle one of the trek touts by offering him a trek round Dagenham for very good price, and very big discount as he is my friend. He now thinks Dagenham is beautiful and will probably tell that to anyone who comes from England now.
I'm sharing, haven't met my roommate yet, I'm figuring he's the Italian as he is called Gabriel, but you never know. It's pretty weird having to share, but we're going to all be in pretty close proximity for the next three weeks.
This place has a garden, most of the others have some sort of roof business, you can see quite a bit more sky here, there's a couple of what I think are Griffons circling really high up and hundreds of swift-type birds. They won't go hungry with all these flies that's for sure.
You have to pay the wifi here, 100NR for an hour, which a lot of other places do for free. Probably move on as soon as we get back, maybe up to Pokhara, which is a 7-9hr bus ride, but it's the best way to see a country and I'm here to see more than KTM and the himalaya.
Tonight we have the welcome dinner, I'm not really that bothered, sure it'll be lovely and all that, but I'm anxious and want to get moved on to the trek.
The number of goats tied up in the street is increasing. In a few days they'll be headless and in the pot. Imagine if we had to kill the Xmas turkey on the day before rather than get it prepacked from Tesco. Other turkeys are available from other good stores.
So Pradip the company boss turns up, and he says he can save some money if I do the guided tour of KTM tomorrow, I am a 'resident' and should know it very well. I tell him I do it for very good price.
We're now 9 for the trek, and 8 for the mountain, there's a girl who's leaving us before climbing. She's the only girl coming along. There's also another Brit Dave, which is actually a bit of a relief, although I am paired for now with the Italian. We're all meeting in a couple of hours for briefing and dinner. I've spent the day sorting gear, trying to work out what I need and what I don't. Pradip likes my boots. He's not getting them though!! I just have to get the flight out of the way.
One of the kids here who picks shit up and moves it around as far as I can tell is wearing a ball cap that he has very carefully written 'Nike' on in marker pen on the back, the front says 'Chuck's Mowers, Denver' or something. I'd love to see what would happen to a teenager who made his own Nike ball cap back home.
It's now raining hard, just in time for Dishanwy, just like Xmas at home.
Met up with the team, strange mix. Two Norwegians, girls who seem serious mountaineers, off to Anconcagua next yesr. Ken's an Aussie fireman and a top bloke, there's a family of Americans, where the parents have been here often, and my roomy Gab who is Italian and also here for his fortieth, seems a decent bloke. Think we're a good group, and we all enjoyed the cultural night, dancing and traditional Nepali food. One of the Norwegians is a nurse and I think we've all got a strong chance of a summit. Unless we drink much Rakshi. Then we'll all die.
Thursday 14 October 2010
Obscured by Clouds
Managed to speak to my neices on skype last night which was really cool, the ability to check in with familiar things keeps this long trip just that little bit easier, from now though it might just get a bit too hectic and far away for all that.
Went out to Paddys and met up with a kiwi and his guide just back from the Everest trek. The guide is full of confidence, telling me he's going to guide Everest, but it's a happy confidence that rubs off a bit. He's drinking green tea, and laughing at jokes I'm surprised he understands. He wants to do Ama Dablam next year, and thinks if I can do Imja I should have a chance of summiting the 6900m icon of the Himalaya. I wonder if the good lady would allow another mission out here?!
The kiwi guy is travelling the world in two months, pretty much a whistle stop tour, which must be pretty tough because you never have time to get orientated. Respect, though, he's out there doing it.
Before all that I sat up in Northfield chatting with a couple out here on charity work, I might be able to get some time with them when I'm back. She's from Saffron Walden and a doctor, and is fulfilling a friend's wish. A friend who trekked to EBC with cancer. Pretty awesome that. Makes my worrying about it seem silly.
The husband tells me a funny story where he's repeatedly asked If he likes 'hashish' by a shoe shine boy. And the boy won't accept that he doesn't like it. "all English like hasish, " and so it goes on. Then the kid says "Australians like hashish too... Ricky Ponting, Andrew Flintoff...all like...." The guy then realises he's saying "Ashes.. You like Ashes!"
There's a few kids knocking round sniffing glue last night, slumped up against the police box. No-one chases them away, arrests them or even takes much notice. They don't seem to have the fears we in the west do where we sweep things like that under the carpet I think.
It's pretty chilly this morning, the first time I've seen a lot of cloud, although apparently it gets foggy here quite often as KTM is in a valley. It's the first time I've not seen the sun while I've had breakfast since I have been here. I've been out for some more drugs for AMS and some other bits and some breakfast, then it's time to move on to Laizupat, change hotels again and meet up with the trekking group.
Went out to Paddys and met up with a kiwi and his guide just back from the Everest trek. The guide is full of confidence, telling me he's going to guide Everest, but it's a happy confidence that rubs off a bit. He's drinking green tea, and laughing at jokes I'm surprised he understands. He wants to do Ama Dablam next year, and thinks if I can do Imja I should have a chance of summiting the 6900m icon of the Himalaya. I wonder if the good lady would allow another mission out here?!
The kiwi guy is travelling the world in two months, pretty much a whistle stop tour, which must be pretty tough because you never have time to get orientated. Respect, though, he's out there doing it.
Before all that I sat up in Northfield chatting with a couple out here on charity work, I might be able to get some time with them when I'm back. She's from Saffron Walden and a doctor, and is fulfilling a friend's wish. A friend who trekked to EBC with cancer. Pretty awesome that. Makes my worrying about it seem silly.
The husband tells me a funny story where he's repeatedly asked If he likes 'hashish' by a shoe shine boy. And the boy won't accept that he doesn't like it. "all English like hasish, " and so it goes on. Then the kid says "Australians like hashish too... Ricky Ponting, Andrew Flintoff...all like...." The guy then realises he's saying "Ashes.. You like Ashes!"
There's a few kids knocking round sniffing glue last night, slumped up against the police box. No-one chases them away, arrests them or even takes much notice. They don't seem to have the fears we in the west do where we sweep things like that under the carpet I think.
It's pretty chilly this morning, the first time I've seen a lot of cloud, although apparently it gets foggy here quite often as KTM is in a valley. It's the first time I've not seen the sun while I've had breakfast since I have been here. I've been out for some more drugs for AMS and some other bits and some breakfast, then it's time to move on to Laizupat, change hotels again and meet up with the trekking group.
Wednesday 13 October 2010
Take Up Thy Stethoscope and Walk
Did some shopping today, picked up a few bits and bobs for trekking like my drugs for AMS, which you can get freely from the pharmacy here, but UK doctors won't give you. That's even though it can save your life if the AMS becomes HAPE or HACE. There's various theories about the other diseases up in the hills, some books say it's so high up that a lot of bacteria that would normally make you sick don't really survive, but I've got the immodium, some Bisto and a cork. One of them will work, or a combination.
Lots of places will be closed for Dasani on Sat on Sun, the big festival, think we're out of town by then though, don't want to be struggling to find food and beer.
Was going for a stroll round Thamel but found an MTB place, so got a bike for $10 for the day. No face mask though, which resulted in some fairly spontaneous vomiting after following a garbage lorry for a while. I'm eating loads, but I'm definitely losing weight despite pumping in the calories like there's no tomorrow, not really sure how I'm going to combat that. There's only so much pizza and burritos a man can eat, and we'll be on Dhal Bhaat for three weeks I guess.
Went through the itinerary on the map, there's a few hairy bits marked 'dangerous in snow', which is what I'm here for, pretty stoked about that, but we're a few weeks early for the deep stuff.
Lots of places will be closed for Dasani on Sat on Sun, the big festival, think we're out of town by then though, don't want to be struggling to find food and beer.
Was going for a stroll round Thamel but found an MTB place, so got a bike for $10 for the day. No face mask though, which resulted in some fairly spontaneous vomiting after following a garbage lorry for a while. I'm eating loads, but I'm definitely losing weight despite pumping in the calories like there's no tomorrow, not really sure how I'm going to combat that. There's only so much pizza and burritos a man can eat, and we'll be on Dhal Bhaat for three weeks I guess.
Went through the itinerary on the map, there's a few hairy bits marked 'dangerous in snow', which is what I'm here for, pretty stoked about that, but we're a few weeks early for the deep stuff.
The itinerary
Everest High Passes and Peaks
25 Days Strenuous Trip
22 Days Teahouse and Camping Trek & Climbing
04 Nights Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu
Round Trip Himalayan Flight to Lukla
Highest Elevation: 6189 meter
Venture on Himalayan peak close to Everest along with the spectacular Himalayan traverses from Gokyo valley to Everest Base camp via the Chola pass.
The exciting picturesque journey of Everest high Pass and Peaks links you through three beautiful Himalayan valleys: Gokyo, Khumbu and Imja. This high altitude trekking and climbing trip in Everest region fulfills the dream of every amateur climbers and serious trekkers, who have been seeking the thrill of adventure and wish to widen their experience towards the peak climbing expedition beyond simply trekking in Nepal.
The professionally design Everest High Pass and Peaks trek and climbing itinerary takes you to the acclimatization hike to the most popular trekking destination of Gokyo lakes, Gokyo Ri, Himalayan traverse of Chola pass, Everest Base camp and Kala Pathar for the close up views of Everest before scaling Island peak, also known as Imja Tse (6,189m), lies to the south of Everest and is one of the most popular trekking peaks
We head for Island peak climbing after the essential climbing practice course briefed and instructed by Climbing Sherpa on various aspects of climbing techniques. Your historical effort to summit the peak will be rewarded with probably one of the best panoramic views in the world as you feel Lhotse, Nuptse, Baruntse, Ama Dablam and Makalu are almost touching the tip of your nose.
Day 1 Arrive in Kathmandu (1330m): Mountain Monarch office representative welcomes you on your arrival in Kathmandu airport and transfer to the hotel in Kathmandu where pre – trek arrival briefing and other information will be given. Arrangements are made today for the distribution of your kit bag, down jacket, sleeping bag etc. For your kind information, your group leader will be happy to assist you in any way he can. The evening will be highlighted by a traditional Royal Nepali welcome dinner accompanied with trek guide as a perfect end of your very arrival day in the Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal.
Day 2 Sightseeing tour in Kathmandu: Today you have time to explore Kathmandu-valley, which has more World Heritage sites than any other city in the world. This capital city has an amazing range of traditional fascinating highlights, whatever your interest. In our morning exploration of the cultural sights and sounds in Kathmandu, we will visit the Bhaudanath stupa, a biggest Buddhist shrine in Nepal and Pashupatinath, most important Hindu temple, where you have chance to witness the cremation done in public way. After the guided tour afternoon is free to pack, purchase last minutes items for your trek or simply relax.
Day 3 Flight to Lukla (2600) Trek to Phakding (2600) Walk approx. 3hrs.
Early in the morning, we head towards the STOL airport for 45 minutes thrilling mountain flight to the airstrip at Lukla which was built by Sir Edmund Hillary and his friend, when he started his social work of building schools and hospitals for the local Sherpa people. At Lukla, the first glimpse of all huge mountains are quite impressive which surround the very village, but be patience, it is just starting, and there are lots more to come on your way. From Lukla, we trek downhill towards the Dudh Koshi (milky river), a raging river that flows from the highest mountains. The trail is fairly easy and well-marked, menders around the fields of potatoes and wheat. We pass through many traditional villages to reach to the vicinity of Phakding for our first night stay at Lodge.
We see many "Mani Wall" which is a compilation of many stone tablets, each with the Buddhist chanting inscriptions, "Om Mani Padme Hum" which means, "Hail to the jewel on the lotus". Please respect the local tradition as the local people walking left to these Mani Walls.
Day 4 Namche Bazaar (3440m) walk approx 5 -6 hrs. Today, passing through the pine forest and terraces, we cross and recross the thundering glacial river ' Dudh Koshi '. We will see groups of yaks and dzopki carrying the trek-gears and trading goods along the trail. Spectacular mountain peaks like Nupla (5885m) Kongde RI (6093 m), Thamserku (6808m) rises majestically above us.
We must be patient, though the allure of the mountains is hard to resist, as it is very important that we acclimatize slowly so that we can fully appreciate our time at higher altitude. We enter onto the Sagarmatha National Park, another World Heritage site. We walk along the river to the confluence of the Dudh Koshi and Bhote Koshi and cross a spectacular high bridge before commencing ascent to the village of Namche Bazaar, a gateway to the Everest. As we ascent passing through pine forest of rhododendron and magnolia, we will sight our first view of the majestic Mt. Everest from a vantage point
Day 5 Rest Day in Namche BazaarAs we believe that the journey is important not the place of stay. This rest day is very important to acclimatize for safe ascending. Though it is a rest day, you have lots of options you can do as you wish. You may walk to the hill above the village to the National Park Headquarter to see stunning view of huge mountains including Mt. Everest. The Sherpa cultural center in National Park headquarter, has an interesting collection of Sherpa mountaineering items and photographs. You may go on an excursion to Thame village or those who are fit and acclimatizing well may wish to take an optional morning walk to the Everest View Hotel from where view of the Mt. Everest and Ama Dablam may be seen or just simply relax and watch the Sherpa culture around
Day 06: Thame, (3,800 m.) approx. 6 hoursWe trek out to Thame 12,500ft. (3,809m.) Following the Bhotekoshi river valley. This walks takes us away from the main corridor of travel towards Everest Base Camp. At the same time it takes us toward the home of many of the most accomplished Sherpa Everest climbers. Tenzing Norgay was from Thame. Other famous mountaineers like Ang Rita and Apa Sherpa both from Thame. Here you can make visit to the monastery of Thame is home to a Rimpoche or reincarnate lama.
Day 07: Lungden, (4400m.) approx. 6 hours We leave Thame in the direction of the fabled Nangpa La, the glaciated pass into Tibet. Nomadic Tibetan traders will be on the trail to Namche, but we will be heading into wilderness areas. We follow the right side of the valley and will stay at Lungden. The trails leads the river valley making a gradual climb, the views to the south is stunning by the northern flank of Kongde Ri and to the west is Bigphera Go, Tashi Lapsa and Kang Tengpoche. To the north can be seen Nangpa La range in the border between Nepal and Tibet.
Day 08: Rest & acclimatization Here we will take a rest for acclimatization practices; we just walk around the valley, or try to climb up a bit, just to be sure for the next days to go over the pass
Day 09: Gokyo (4800 m.) approx. 8 hour Early morning departures to Renjo pass. Today we have a longer day, so we start our first Everest pass crossing, Renjo pass, for those familiar with the Rocky passes of Colorado you will find this pass really similar. There is no glacier; just behind the pass there are some icy parts to descend down to Gokyo valley. If we are trekking in Nov then we have to be careful to descend down from the pass. The trails to the pass will climb steeply and some parts will be walk zigzag. The views from the pass is unbelievable north face of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Makalu the fourth highest of the world, many more gigantic Himalayan peaks and Cho- Oyu one of the 8000m very close by you. We will descend all the way into Gokyo at an elevation 4800m.
Day 10 Ascent of Gokyo RI (5483m) walks approx 4 hrs. Early in the morning we start steady ascent of Gokyo Ri that takes around 2 to 3 hours, depending on your level of fitness and acclimatization for the Nepal's best panoramic views. From the rocky summit four peaks higher than 8000 meter can be seen: Everest (8848m), Cho-Oyo (98153m), Lhotse (8501m) and Makalu (84) and countless other towering snow peaks fill the horizon including Gyangchung Kang (7922 m), Cholatse (6440 m), Tawache (6542 m), Kantega (6685 m), Thamserku (6808 m), Lobuche (6145 m) and many more other unnamed peaks while below us the Ngozumpa Glacier stretches through the valley and the striking color of the lakes make the completion of the whole incredible Gokyo valley.
Day 11 Thangna (4880 m) walks 4 hrsToday we leave our way across the glacier to the luncheon camp called Thangna as our trail menders around the constantly changing obstacles. Great views of Cho-Oyo and Cholatse greet you. Keep an eye open for the Himalayan Thar on the rocky slopes as they are not hunted and are not too shy.
Day 12 Chola pass (5335m) sand Dzongla (4843m) walk approx. 6-7 hrs. We start our journey early in the morning to take advantage of the stable early morning weather pattern that prevails in the Himalayas. Depending upon the weather condition it takes 3-4 hours to reach the saddle of the Pass. There will be time on the crown of the Pass to drink and savour the life long experience being on the Pass before the descent into the valley to Dzongla. This is one of the especial days the highlight of the trip. The views of the peaks seem to hover over us. Words failed to describes the beauty of Nature and sense of achievement to be on the Pass.
Day 13 Lobuche (4930m) walk approx 5-6 hrs.The early morning sun is welcome after a cold night and reveals a dramatic panorama of the spectacular pears. We traverse high in the flanks of Awi Peak, above the village of Chola and continue past Cholatse Lake. Beyond the lake the Chola Glacier flows from the saddle between the cliffs of Cholatse and Tawache peaks with the rugged beautiful display. We continue our walk until we join the busy trail to Everest Base Camp. Walking on barren slopes above the tree line we sill see different peaks such as Cholatse, Lobuche and Pumari unfolds us in this contrasting and spectacular landscape. Rock cairns can be seen dedicated to the memory of climbers attempting the high mountains at Dugla Ridge. Walking up onto marine of Khumbu Glacier (the longest glacier in Nepal) to Lobuche for the overnight camp, one can feel the temperature drops her as we are more exposed with our camp situated along this glacier marine.
Day14Gorak Shep (5288m) walk approx 3-4 hrs / climb Kalapathar (5546m) approx walk 4 hrs. Today, we are high among the glaciers of the world's highest peaks to trek alongside the Khumbu Glacier, as the trail menders over the rocky marine towards the high settlement of seasonal spectacular village called Gorak Shep. After the rest, we ascend the slopes of Kalapathar, a small, rocky peak on the south west ridge of Pumori, a slow, and steady pace once again takes us on vantage point to savour the sensational Himalayan vistas all around. The climb is not easy but the view from the top surpasses the wildest imagination. We will hear huge glaciers creaking as they move under pressure and be awe-struck at the sheer size and majesty of the surrounding peaks including Pumori, Nuptse, Changtse, Ama Dablam, Tawache, Kantega and Everest – the highest mountain in the world. About 3 kilometer distance east and some 200 meter below, the famed Everest base camp is seen in a bowl at the bottom of the notorious Khumbu Ice Fall. For many trekkers reaching Kala Pathar is a very emotional experience and we have allowed plenty of time on Kala Pattar to enjoy the experience. We return to Gorak Shep for over night stay. This spectacular village is surround by Pumari (7145m), Lingtren (6697m), Nuptse (7745m) and of course Everest (8848m). As the sun sets it becomes very cold though the sun is strong in daytime.
Day15Morning excursion to Everest base camp (5300m) walk approx 5 hrs and trek back to Dingboche, walk approx 4 hrs. This morning we head for the historical ascend to Everest Base Camp. The trail sometimes can be difficult to follow so do keep an eye on your Sherpa guides and walk carefully. On the way we might encounter yaks and porters supplying food and equipment to the Expedition group in March and April. We could not see the Everest from base camp but we can see the most difficult and dangerous section of Everest expedition, the Khumbu Ice Fall that flows from the western Cwm. After making historic steps on Everest Base Camp and Kalapattar, we will descend down to the highlander's village called Lobuche. Another day at high altitude so be prepared for the long and tiring day. The trek to Everest base camp is optional so if you are feeling tired you can rest at Gorak Shep instead. After making historic steps on Everest Base Camp and Kalapattar, we will descend down Dingboche retracing down our way via the memorial Rock Cairns.
Day 16 Trek to Base camp, walk approx 6 hrs. (Tented Camping) Following the Imja Khola valley we ascent gradual, crossing small streams, through open alpine pastures with fine views of Island Peak at the head of the valley. We reach Himalayan hamlet Chukung being surrounded on three sides by icy peaks: the views of the massive Lhotse Wall and Ama Dablam are particularly impressive as seen from Chukung. After the lunch we heads the side of the lateral moraines of the Imja glacier takes you to the beautiful Island peak base camp. Mountain Monarch staff have set up the two men climbing dome tent for you and our cook prepare the delicious food for you.
Day17Acclimatization rest day / Climbing Clinic This rest day will help us to have a successful summit of the Island Peak. Today our experience mountaineering expertise – climbing Sherpa will give you the climbing information of the peak. The aim of our climbing clinics is to build self-confidence and increase the rate of success to each participant. Climbing Sherpa and trek leader brief the group on the theory and practical use for climbing gears like ice axe, zoomer, crampons, rope fixing etc.
Day 18 Island Peak climbing (full day)Today is one of the tough and important as it is a summit day. We leave the Base Camp early at around 3 am using head torches. After about half an hour's walk along the moraine at the side of the glacier we turn up the screes of Island Peak. The trail is clear but it is stiff walking at over 5000m and cold.
The scree finishes at the site of the High Camp and we begin scrambling up easy angled rock. After some time we join a rib and scramble along it to a point where the glacier joins the top of the rocks. Here we put on crampons, harnesses and rope up. The route weaves through the crevassed glacier eventually reaching a steep headwall leading to the summit ridge. Normally the guides and Sherpas will climb this first and fix a rope down at this section allowing members to zoomer up and on return abseil down. The summit ridge is quite narrow and sometimes corniced. We continue roped up along it to the small shapely summit of Island peak top where the panoramic Himalayas enthrall you making your historical trip of a lifetime.
Day 19 Spare Day This is a spare day to enable us to be flexible with the program to allow for weather changes or other problems. If we have been able to follow the itinerary to date we can use this day for further exploration of the area.
Day 20 Trek to Pangboche 5-6 hrsThere may be a tendency to rush; particularly as we are walking downhill but at the same time there are still lots more to see. We descend along the meandering trail to Pangboche and visit its historic oldest monastery in Khumbu before continue down to the Imja Khola (river). The bridge across the river is spectacular and the rapids of the water cause the river to roar beneath us.
Day21Namche walk approx 6 -7 hrs. It seems much quicker and easier going down! There can be a tendency to rush as we are walking downhill, but there is still much to see as we descend to Thyanboche on the way to Namche, the Sherpa capital where we will visit the Thyanboche monastery. This monastery was recently re-built after it was destroyed by fire in 1989AD. As this area is a devout Buddhist region, the wild life is unharmed so there is possibility that we may see some wild animals such as musk deer, mountain goat and Pheasants etc.
Day 22 Lukla (2600m) walk approx 5 hrs. We retrace our steps along the same Dudh Koshi through pine and rhododendron forest with a view of Kusum Kanguru and other splendid mountains behind us before a gradual climb out of the river valley to the trek starting point Lukla to savour our final mountain sunset of the trek as we complete this exhilarating journey.
Day 23 Fly back to Kathmandu This morning, we have a flight from Lukla to Kathmandu; it is a thrilling exciting flight over forests, fields and villages with the Himalayas at the background. On arrival, we transfer to the hotel. The remainder of the day is at leisure.
Day 24 In Kathmandu: There are lots of interesting thing to see in Kathmandu valley: the Royal Palace, Durbar Squares, Swayambhunath (the monkey temple), Pashupatinath, Buddhist Stupa at Bouddhnath, Patan and an ancient city Bhakatpur etc. Or you may explore down town to shop for souvenirs, getting your photos or slides processed and trying out the various restaurants in Thamel.
Day 25 Departure/Trip Concludes:
It is time to fly back to home keeping all the exhilarating experiences of Nepal in mind. Please make sure that you have collected all valuable from the security department. Those people traveling by aircraft to further destination will be transferred to the airport and assisted with check in procedures.
Note: The above route and walking hours must be seen as a guide only. This itinerary may change at any time due to weather, trail conditions or other reason.
Wishing you wonderful adventure trip in Nepal.
Mountain Monarch Adventures
Phone # 977 – 1 – 4361668 Cell 977 - 9851079588
E-mail: mma@mail.com.np
Website www.mountainmonarch.com
25 Days Strenuous Trip
22 Days Teahouse and Camping Trek & Climbing
04 Nights Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu
Round Trip Himalayan Flight to Lukla
Highest Elevation: 6189 meter
Venture on Himalayan peak close to Everest along with the spectacular Himalayan traverses from Gokyo valley to Everest Base camp via the Chola pass.
The exciting picturesque journey of Everest high Pass and Peaks links you through three beautiful Himalayan valleys: Gokyo, Khumbu and Imja. This high altitude trekking and climbing trip in Everest region fulfills the dream of every amateur climbers and serious trekkers, who have been seeking the thrill of adventure and wish to widen their experience towards the peak climbing expedition beyond simply trekking in Nepal.
The professionally design Everest High Pass and Peaks trek and climbing itinerary takes you to the acclimatization hike to the most popular trekking destination of Gokyo lakes, Gokyo Ri, Himalayan traverse of Chola pass, Everest Base camp and Kala Pathar for the close up views of Everest before scaling Island peak, also known as Imja Tse (6,189m), lies to the south of Everest and is one of the most popular trekking peaks
We head for Island peak climbing after the essential climbing practice course briefed and instructed by Climbing Sherpa on various aspects of climbing techniques. Your historical effort to summit the peak will be rewarded with probably one of the best panoramic views in the world as you feel Lhotse, Nuptse, Baruntse, Ama Dablam and Makalu are almost touching the tip of your nose.
Day 1 Arrive in Kathmandu (1330m): Mountain Monarch office representative welcomes you on your arrival in Kathmandu airport and transfer to the hotel in Kathmandu where pre – trek arrival briefing and other information will be given. Arrangements are made today for the distribution of your kit bag, down jacket, sleeping bag etc. For your kind information, your group leader will be happy to assist you in any way he can. The evening will be highlighted by a traditional Royal Nepali welcome dinner accompanied with trek guide as a perfect end of your very arrival day in the Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal.
Day 2 Sightseeing tour in Kathmandu: Today you have time to explore Kathmandu-valley, which has more World Heritage sites than any other city in the world. This capital city has an amazing range of traditional fascinating highlights, whatever your interest. In our morning exploration of the cultural sights and sounds in Kathmandu, we will visit the Bhaudanath stupa, a biggest Buddhist shrine in Nepal and Pashupatinath, most important Hindu temple, where you have chance to witness the cremation done in public way. After the guided tour afternoon is free to pack, purchase last minutes items for your trek or simply relax.
Day 3 Flight to Lukla (2600) Trek to Phakding (2600) Walk approx. 3hrs.
Early in the morning, we head towards the STOL airport for 45 minutes thrilling mountain flight to the airstrip at Lukla which was built by Sir Edmund Hillary and his friend, when he started his social work of building schools and hospitals for the local Sherpa people. At Lukla, the first glimpse of all huge mountains are quite impressive which surround the very village, but be patience, it is just starting, and there are lots more to come on your way. From Lukla, we trek downhill towards the Dudh Koshi (milky river), a raging river that flows from the highest mountains. The trail is fairly easy and well-marked, menders around the fields of potatoes and wheat. We pass through many traditional villages to reach to the vicinity of Phakding for our first night stay at Lodge.
We see many "Mani Wall" which is a compilation of many stone tablets, each with the Buddhist chanting inscriptions, "Om Mani Padme Hum" which means, "Hail to the jewel on the lotus". Please respect the local tradition as the local people walking left to these Mani Walls.
Day 4 Namche Bazaar (3440m) walk approx 5 -6 hrs. Today, passing through the pine forest and terraces, we cross and recross the thundering glacial river ' Dudh Koshi '. We will see groups of yaks and dzopki carrying the trek-gears and trading goods along the trail. Spectacular mountain peaks like Nupla (5885m) Kongde RI (6093 m), Thamserku (6808m) rises majestically above us.
We must be patient, though the allure of the mountains is hard to resist, as it is very important that we acclimatize slowly so that we can fully appreciate our time at higher altitude. We enter onto the Sagarmatha National Park, another World Heritage site. We walk along the river to the confluence of the Dudh Koshi and Bhote Koshi and cross a spectacular high bridge before commencing ascent to the village of Namche Bazaar, a gateway to the Everest. As we ascent passing through pine forest of rhododendron and magnolia, we will sight our first view of the majestic Mt. Everest from a vantage point
Day 5 Rest Day in Namche BazaarAs we believe that the journey is important not the place of stay. This rest day is very important to acclimatize for safe ascending. Though it is a rest day, you have lots of options you can do as you wish. You may walk to the hill above the village to the National Park Headquarter to see stunning view of huge mountains including Mt. Everest. The Sherpa cultural center in National Park headquarter, has an interesting collection of Sherpa mountaineering items and photographs. You may go on an excursion to Thame village or those who are fit and acclimatizing well may wish to take an optional morning walk to the Everest View Hotel from where view of the Mt. Everest and Ama Dablam may be seen or just simply relax and watch the Sherpa culture around
Day 06: Thame, (3,800 m.) approx. 6 hoursWe trek out to Thame 12,500ft. (3,809m.) Following the Bhotekoshi river valley. This walks takes us away from the main corridor of travel towards Everest Base Camp. At the same time it takes us toward the home of many of the most accomplished Sherpa Everest climbers. Tenzing Norgay was from Thame. Other famous mountaineers like Ang Rita and Apa Sherpa both from Thame. Here you can make visit to the monastery of Thame is home to a Rimpoche or reincarnate lama.
Day 07: Lungden, (4400m.) approx. 6 hours We leave Thame in the direction of the fabled Nangpa La, the glaciated pass into Tibet. Nomadic Tibetan traders will be on the trail to Namche, but we will be heading into wilderness areas. We follow the right side of the valley and will stay at Lungden. The trails leads the river valley making a gradual climb, the views to the south is stunning by the northern flank of Kongde Ri and to the west is Bigphera Go, Tashi Lapsa and Kang Tengpoche. To the north can be seen Nangpa La range in the border between Nepal and Tibet.
Day 08: Rest & acclimatization Here we will take a rest for acclimatization practices; we just walk around the valley, or try to climb up a bit, just to be sure for the next days to go over the pass
Day 09: Gokyo (4800 m.) approx. 8 hour Early morning departures to Renjo pass. Today we have a longer day, so we start our first Everest pass crossing, Renjo pass, for those familiar with the Rocky passes of Colorado you will find this pass really similar. There is no glacier; just behind the pass there are some icy parts to descend down to Gokyo valley. If we are trekking in Nov then we have to be careful to descend down from the pass. The trails to the pass will climb steeply and some parts will be walk zigzag. The views from the pass is unbelievable north face of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Makalu the fourth highest of the world, many more gigantic Himalayan peaks and Cho- Oyu one of the 8000m very close by you. We will descend all the way into Gokyo at an elevation 4800m.
Day 10 Ascent of Gokyo RI (5483m) walks approx 4 hrs. Early in the morning we start steady ascent of Gokyo Ri that takes around 2 to 3 hours, depending on your level of fitness and acclimatization for the Nepal's best panoramic views. From the rocky summit four peaks higher than 8000 meter can be seen: Everest (8848m), Cho-Oyo (98153m), Lhotse (8501m) and Makalu (84) and countless other towering snow peaks fill the horizon including Gyangchung Kang (7922 m), Cholatse (6440 m), Tawache (6542 m), Kantega (6685 m), Thamserku (6808 m), Lobuche (6145 m) and many more other unnamed peaks while below us the Ngozumpa Glacier stretches through the valley and the striking color of the lakes make the completion of the whole incredible Gokyo valley.
Day 11 Thangna (4880 m) walks 4 hrsToday we leave our way across the glacier to the luncheon camp called Thangna as our trail menders around the constantly changing obstacles. Great views of Cho-Oyo and Cholatse greet you. Keep an eye open for the Himalayan Thar on the rocky slopes as they are not hunted and are not too shy.
Day 12 Chola pass (5335m) sand Dzongla (4843m) walk approx. 6-7 hrs. We start our journey early in the morning to take advantage of the stable early morning weather pattern that prevails in the Himalayas. Depending upon the weather condition it takes 3-4 hours to reach the saddle of the Pass. There will be time on the crown of the Pass to drink and savour the life long experience being on the Pass before the descent into the valley to Dzongla. This is one of the especial days the highlight of the trip. The views of the peaks seem to hover over us. Words failed to describes the beauty of Nature and sense of achievement to be on the Pass.
Day 13 Lobuche (4930m) walk approx 5-6 hrs.The early morning sun is welcome after a cold night and reveals a dramatic panorama of the spectacular pears. We traverse high in the flanks of Awi Peak, above the village of Chola and continue past Cholatse Lake. Beyond the lake the Chola Glacier flows from the saddle between the cliffs of Cholatse and Tawache peaks with the rugged beautiful display. We continue our walk until we join the busy trail to Everest Base Camp. Walking on barren slopes above the tree line we sill see different peaks such as Cholatse, Lobuche and Pumari unfolds us in this contrasting and spectacular landscape. Rock cairns can be seen dedicated to the memory of climbers attempting the high mountains at Dugla Ridge. Walking up onto marine of Khumbu Glacier (the longest glacier in Nepal) to Lobuche for the overnight camp, one can feel the temperature drops her as we are more exposed with our camp situated along this glacier marine.
Day14Gorak Shep (5288m) walk approx 3-4 hrs / climb Kalapathar (5546m) approx walk 4 hrs. Today, we are high among the glaciers of the world's highest peaks to trek alongside the Khumbu Glacier, as the trail menders over the rocky marine towards the high settlement of seasonal spectacular village called Gorak Shep. After the rest, we ascend the slopes of Kalapathar, a small, rocky peak on the south west ridge of Pumori, a slow, and steady pace once again takes us on vantage point to savour the sensational Himalayan vistas all around. The climb is not easy but the view from the top surpasses the wildest imagination. We will hear huge glaciers creaking as they move under pressure and be awe-struck at the sheer size and majesty of the surrounding peaks including Pumori, Nuptse, Changtse, Ama Dablam, Tawache, Kantega and Everest – the highest mountain in the world. About 3 kilometer distance east and some 200 meter below, the famed Everest base camp is seen in a bowl at the bottom of the notorious Khumbu Ice Fall. For many trekkers reaching Kala Pathar is a very emotional experience and we have allowed plenty of time on Kala Pattar to enjoy the experience. We return to Gorak Shep for over night stay. This spectacular village is surround by Pumari (7145m), Lingtren (6697m), Nuptse (7745m) and of course Everest (8848m). As the sun sets it becomes very cold though the sun is strong in daytime.
Day15Morning excursion to Everest base camp (5300m) walk approx 5 hrs and trek back to Dingboche, walk approx 4 hrs. This morning we head for the historical ascend to Everest Base Camp. The trail sometimes can be difficult to follow so do keep an eye on your Sherpa guides and walk carefully. On the way we might encounter yaks and porters supplying food and equipment to the Expedition group in March and April. We could not see the Everest from base camp but we can see the most difficult and dangerous section of Everest expedition, the Khumbu Ice Fall that flows from the western Cwm. After making historic steps on Everest Base Camp and Kalapattar, we will descend down to the highlander's village called Lobuche. Another day at high altitude so be prepared for the long and tiring day. The trek to Everest base camp is optional so if you are feeling tired you can rest at Gorak Shep instead. After making historic steps on Everest Base Camp and Kalapattar, we will descend down Dingboche retracing down our way via the memorial Rock Cairns.
Day 16 Trek to Base camp, walk approx 6 hrs. (Tented Camping) Following the Imja Khola valley we ascent gradual, crossing small streams, through open alpine pastures with fine views of Island Peak at the head of the valley. We reach Himalayan hamlet Chukung being surrounded on three sides by icy peaks: the views of the massive Lhotse Wall and Ama Dablam are particularly impressive as seen from Chukung. After the lunch we heads the side of the lateral moraines of the Imja glacier takes you to the beautiful Island peak base camp. Mountain Monarch staff have set up the two men climbing dome tent for you and our cook prepare the delicious food for you.
Day17Acclimatization rest day / Climbing Clinic This rest day will help us to have a successful summit of the Island Peak. Today our experience mountaineering expertise – climbing Sherpa will give you the climbing information of the peak. The aim of our climbing clinics is to build self-confidence and increase the rate of success to each participant. Climbing Sherpa and trek leader brief the group on the theory and practical use for climbing gears like ice axe, zoomer, crampons, rope fixing etc.
Day 18 Island Peak climbing (full day)Today is one of the tough and important as it is a summit day. We leave the Base Camp early at around 3 am using head torches. After about half an hour's walk along the moraine at the side of the glacier we turn up the screes of Island Peak. The trail is clear but it is stiff walking at over 5000m and cold.
The scree finishes at the site of the High Camp and we begin scrambling up easy angled rock. After some time we join a rib and scramble along it to a point where the glacier joins the top of the rocks. Here we put on crampons, harnesses and rope up. The route weaves through the crevassed glacier eventually reaching a steep headwall leading to the summit ridge. Normally the guides and Sherpas will climb this first and fix a rope down at this section allowing members to zoomer up and on return abseil down. The summit ridge is quite narrow and sometimes corniced. We continue roped up along it to the small shapely summit of Island peak top where the panoramic Himalayas enthrall you making your historical trip of a lifetime.
Day 19 Spare Day This is a spare day to enable us to be flexible with the program to allow for weather changes or other problems. If we have been able to follow the itinerary to date we can use this day for further exploration of the area.
Day 20 Trek to Pangboche 5-6 hrsThere may be a tendency to rush; particularly as we are walking downhill but at the same time there are still lots more to see. We descend along the meandering trail to Pangboche and visit its historic oldest monastery in Khumbu before continue down to the Imja Khola (river). The bridge across the river is spectacular and the rapids of the water cause the river to roar beneath us.
Day21Namche walk approx 6 -7 hrs. It seems much quicker and easier going down! There can be a tendency to rush as we are walking downhill, but there is still much to see as we descend to Thyanboche on the way to Namche, the Sherpa capital where we will visit the Thyanboche monastery. This monastery was recently re-built after it was destroyed by fire in 1989AD. As this area is a devout Buddhist region, the wild life is unharmed so there is possibility that we may see some wild animals such as musk deer, mountain goat and Pheasants etc.
Day 22 Lukla (2600m) walk approx 5 hrs. We retrace our steps along the same Dudh Koshi through pine and rhododendron forest with a view of Kusum Kanguru and other splendid mountains behind us before a gradual climb out of the river valley to the trek starting point Lukla to savour our final mountain sunset of the trek as we complete this exhilarating journey.
Day 23 Fly back to Kathmandu This morning, we have a flight from Lukla to Kathmandu; it is a thrilling exciting flight over forests, fields and villages with the Himalayas at the background. On arrival, we transfer to the hotel. The remainder of the day is at leisure.
Day 24 In Kathmandu: There are lots of interesting thing to see in Kathmandu valley: the Royal Palace, Durbar Squares, Swayambhunath (the monkey temple), Pashupatinath, Buddhist Stupa at Bouddhnath, Patan and an ancient city Bhakatpur etc. Or you may explore down town to shop for souvenirs, getting your photos or slides processed and trying out the various restaurants in Thamel.
Day 25 Departure/Trip Concludes:
It is time to fly back to home keeping all the exhilarating experiences of Nepal in mind. Please make sure that you have collected all valuable from the security department. Those people traveling by aircraft to further destination will be transferred to the airport and assisted with check in procedures.
Note: The above route and walking hours must be seen as a guide only. This itinerary may change at any time due to weather, trail conditions or other reason.
Wishing you wonderful adventure trip in Nepal.
Mountain Monarch Adventures
Phone # 977 – 1 – 4361668 Cell 977 - 9851079588
E-mail: mma@mail.com.np
Website www.mountainmonarch.com
Tuesday 12 October 2010
The Hero Returns?
Tonight I bump into Jenny who's down from Kopan and we have a drink, she's heading off to India soon, to work in Kolkutta or whatever they call it now. We're both interested in the way people here just get on with life - the power goes out, no problem, and life never seems to get anyone down.
It's 2200 and there are people who have been at work since 0900, laughing and joking. Imagine that in the UK!
I leave Jenny at KGH and pop into Northfields for some nosh and a beer, and sit up on the high table, barefoot and cross legged and eat Nepali style. The waiters buzz about and I can see everyone, the couples bored with each other looking at the wall or the floor, those excited to have got back from trekking, and those who just drift on through.
The bar might be busy but I am served first and all the waiters take time to come and say Namaste. Then one asks if the manger can interrupt my eating. He chats for a while, tells me he heard about the rude guy earlier and I am a brother of the restaurant, he had asked to waiters to look after my every need. So I sit here while people call for bills and service and I'm asked 'Justin, everything ram-ro?'
It's a bit weird, I didn't want to become 'that guy', but I like the fact I have done some good, maybe. I learn a new word everytime I can, man-li means sexy, and it's amusing to have one of the waiters follow a girl past me and call out 'man-li' and wink at me.
So manager guy has given me a card in Nepali that apparently gets me 40% off at the top Newari restaurant in town, where govt people eat. I'll save that as a post trek treat I think.
Namaste!
It's 2200 and there are people who have been at work since 0900, laughing and joking. Imagine that in the UK!
I leave Jenny at KGH and pop into Northfields for some nosh and a beer, and sit up on the high table, barefoot and cross legged and eat Nepali style. The waiters buzz about and I can see everyone, the couples bored with each other looking at the wall or the floor, those excited to have got back from trekking, and those who just drift on through.
The bar might be busy but I am served first and all the waiters take time to come and say Namaste. Then one asks if the manger can interrupt my eating. He chats for a while, tells me he heard about the rude guy earlier and I am a brother of the restaurant, he had asked to waiters to look after my every need. So I sit here while people call for bills and service and I'm asked 'Justin, everything ram-ro?'
It's a bit weird, I didn't want to become 'that guy', but I like the fact I have done some good, maybe. I learn a new word everytime I can, man-li means sexy, and it's amusing to have one of the waiters follow a girl past me and call out 'man-li' and wink at me.
So manager guy has given me a card in Nepali that apparently gets me 40% off at the top Newari restaurant in town, where govt people eat. I'll save that as a post trek treat I think.
Namaste!
Another Prick In Nepal
Had breakfast at Mandap, which is a bit of an oasis of peace in the middle of Thamel. They sell Illy coffee which is imported and twice the local prices, but it's still only a quid for a pot, and it was needed this morning after sleeping for 11 hours. Couldn't move from Mandap for ages, it was quiet except for the sound of a Buddhist at devotion somewhere nearby and some quiet music.
It's so peaceful there that there is a small flock of what look like European great tits feeding on the crumbs. There's a gardener who spends all day watering and rotating pots so the leaves don't burn in the baking sun.
These are the only birds I've seen, except for an enormous flock of pigeons at Durbar, but it may be because they feed them daily at the temple, so it keeps them there.
Talking of water it's only 10NR a bottle, unless you want it chilled then it's anything from 55 to 110 NR, 114 being a quid. It interested me to see someone pay for the chilled water and then leave it in the sun while she ate breakfast, then stuff it in her rucksack and head off out. It's not so much the cost to her, but that water has to be kept cold, so there's an environmental cost.
I was the only one who noticed, either. two Aussie girls sat behind me were muttering about it, all the Aussies seem pretty clued up on that sort of thing, because they're already feeling the heat of climate change, quite literally.
These two girls were feeling the heat in other ways too after making my early mistake of pumping Tabasco sauce all over their breakfast. At least mine was over chips, but croissants?!
Decided to leave the monkey temple again today, I've got loads of time in KTM after trekking and I think the better option is to get better, and relax before our 25 day haul. It's too hot to walk the 5k across the city today anyway, it's maybe 35 in the sun.
So I've grabbed the sofa in Himalayan Java, another place I get discount, and I'm reading a book I picked up in Pilgrims called the 'Envelope' about a guy who's done the trek I'm doing, minus the climb of Imja. I wish it was putting my mind at rest, but stories of the planes at Lukla being repaired with Duck tape are making my insides churn.
The staff here are pretty cool, there is a cheeky sense of humour that catches some out, mostly the Germans, and they take a genuine pleasure in their work, and love to chat about your families and theirs. The girl here is very concerned that I have not made a family yet, so she gives me double shot coffee. She jokes "strong coffee to make you strong for making family."
Talking of which, there's a guy here who imports garlic to China. Someone has told the world's most gullible nation that it improves virility. The government then taxed sales from 5 to 40%. Dorje reckons "this time next year I'll be a millionaire". And yes he's seen Only Fools and Horses. I saw a pirate DVD of Yes Minister this morning.
It's a good place to watch the world go by. There's a junction outside staffed by the ubiquitous traffic cop who blows his whistle in a seemingly random fashion, basks in the sun and ignores me getting run over. Maybe they only deal with serious injury RTCs here too.
The army were out in force on the street last night as I walked home. The Maoists took over a year or so back, and we've not been subjected to the bhands or strikes that periodically crippled KTM for several years. They're also responsible for the 13% tax on all the bills and the 10% service charge that means you have to add a quarter to all prices, then round up to the nearest rupee as small change doesn't count. It can be hard work!!
It wasn't a good time for the drunk Kiwi to be shouting at a waiter demanding to be told where Jerry Dursfield was. The waiter didn't know, and nor did the manager. In fact no one did. Jerry could have been anywhere, as the army pointed out the best thing would be to go to his hotel and wait there. There's not many people behaving like pricks out here, but Jerry Dursfield from Auckland NZ, your mate is the biggest one I've seen, the one with dreadlocks and sick on his rugby shirt.
I'm loving Skype by the way, the free wifi in a lot of cafes and the hotel means I get to chat to her who must be obeyed and avoid the £1.40 a minute o2 charge, it's nice to have a little link back home and keep in touch with the news, although I'd probably rather not know about what's happening to United. We won't have that above Namche, but by then I'm only going to be worried about breathing.
I've tried to contact Declan a couple of times since I've been here about working at his school next month, but no joy yet. He was in the last Lonely Planet so maybe he's inundated now. I will sort something though, I really enjoyed doing newspaper English with the kids, they line under new words and write down similar ones they already know, almost like making their own thesaurus. It's fascinating and hugely rewarding.
So Dasani starts this week, everyone seems to be buying goats, apparently in this certain night they chop their heads off, and if they come off in one go that's a good thing! Some of them do it with cows, not seen any cows in KTM though, they don't seem to wander round like they do in India. Maybe they've already had their heads lopped off. Anyway it's like their Christmas.
I was in northfields for chilli fries, they're out of Momo, which is like McD running out of burgers, but it was a nice way to spend a few hours. The place gets packed with volunteers from around the villages and you can eavesdrop on what's going on in Nepal.
So there's a Brit girl, a Kiwi girl and an Anerican and they're Skypeing family and all congenial and we share some chat. I have a natter with Bijay who is far too clever to be waiting table, and listen to the political situation here. He's teaching me some Nepali too. An American dude joins the volunteers at the next table and asks for a lemonade, Bijay suggests an Everest, the local beer and this guy goes off on one and tells him to 'fuck off.' he thinks Bijay is taking the piss because he drinks a soft drink.
I've never seem someone look so hurt, so when the girls head off to pay I go over and tell this dude his behaviour isn't cool, and they find it really offensive here - no one EVER swears - and maybe he should give them a tip.
We normally tip maybe 5 NR, he gave Bijay 500 NR, two weeks wages. Dude goes off and the girls cone back with a beer for me and tell me he's needed bringing down to earth for a while. Half hour later the dude us back, thanks me for "keeping him honest" and buys me another beer. I think the buddhists call it Karma, Bijay calls it "happy day". I call it "free beer" and everyone is happy.
So, anyway, I know this goes on a tad, but it's become my diary too. Comments appreciated at Facebook or here. What do you want to know about Nepal?
It's so peaceful there that there is a small flock of what look like European great tits feeding on the crumbs. There's a gardener who spends all day watering and rotating pots so the leaves don't burn in the baking sun.
These are the only birds I've seen, except for an enormous flock of pigeons at Durbar, but it may be because they feed them daily at the temple, so it keeps them there.
Talking of water it's only 10NR a bottle, unless you want it chilled then it's anything from 55 to 110 NR, 114 being a quid. It interested me to see someone pay for the chilled water and then leave it in the sun while she ate breakfast, then stuff it in her rucksack and head off out. It's not so much the cost to her, but that water has to be kept cold, so there's an environmental cost.
I was the only one who noticed, either. two Aussie girls sat behind me were muttering about it, all the Aussies seem pretty clued up on that sort of thing, because they're already feeling the heat of climate change, quite literally.
These two girls were feeling the heat in other ways too after making my early mistake of pumping Tabasco sauce all over their breakfast. At least mine was over chips, but croissants?!
Decided to leave the monkey temple again today, I've got loads of time in KTM after trekking and I think the better option is to get better, and relax before our 25 day haul. It's too hot to walk the 5k across the city today anyway, it's maybe 35 in the sun.
So I've grabbed the sofa in Himalayan Java, another place I get discount, and I'm reading a book I picked up in Pilgrims called the 'Envelope' about a guy who's done the trek I'm doing, minus the climb of Imja. I wish it was putting my mind at rest, but stories of the planes at Lukla being repaired with Duck tape are making my insides churn.
The staff here are pretty cool, there is a cheeky sense of humour that catches some out, mostly the Germans, and they take a genuine pleasure in their work, and love to chat about your families and theirs. The girl here is very concerned that I have not made a family yet, so she gives me double shot coffee. She jokes "strong coffee to make you strong for making family."
Talking of which, there's a guy here who imports garlic to China. Someone has told the world's most gullible nation that it improves virility. The government then taxed sales from 5 to 40%. Dorje reckons "this time next year I'll be a millionaire". And yes he's seen Only Fools and Horses. I saw a pirate DVD of Yes Minister this morning.
It's a good place to watch the world go by. There's a junction outside staffed by the ubiquitous traffic cop who blows his whistle in a seemingly random fashion, basks in the sun and ignores me getting run over. Maybe they only deal with serious injury RTCs here too.
The army were out in force on the street last night as I walked home. The Maoists took over a year or so back, and we've not been subjected to the bhands or strikes that periodically crippled KTM for several years. They're also responsible for the 13% tax on all the bills and the 10% service charge that means you have to add a quarter to all prices, then round up to the nearest rupee as small change doesn't count. It can be hard work!!
It wasn't a good time for the drunk Kiwi to be shouting at a waiter demanding to be told where Jerry Dursfield was. The waiter didn't know, and nor did the manager. In fact no one did. Jerry could have been anywhere, as the army pointed out the best thing would be to go to his hotel and wait there. There's not many people behaving like pricks out here, but Jerry Dursfield from Auckland NZ, your mate is the biggest one I've seen, the one with dreadlocks and sick on his rugby shirt.
I'm loving Skype by the way, the free wifi in a lot of cafes and the hotel means I get to chat to her who must be obeyed and avoid the £1.40 a minute o2 charge, it's nice to have a little link back home and keep in touch with the news, although I'd probably rather not know about what's happening to United. We won't have that above Namche, but by then I'm only going to be worried about breathing.
I've tried to contact Declan a couple of times since I've been here about working at his school next month, but no joy yet. He was in the last Lonely Planet so maybe he's inundated now. I will sort something though, I really enjoyed doing newspaper English with the kids, they line under new words and write down similar ones they already know, almost like making their own thesaurus. It's fascinating and hugely rewarding.
So Dasani starts this week, everyone seems to be buying goats, apparently in this certain night they chop their heads off, and if they come off in one go that's a good thing! Some of them do it with cows, not seen any cows in KTM though, they don't seem to wander round like they do in India. Maybe they've already had their heads lopped off. Anyway it's like their Christmas.
I was in northfields for chilli fries, they're out of Momo, which is like McD running out of burgers, but it was a nice way to spend a few hours. The place gets packed with volunteers from around the villages and you can eavesdrop on what's going on in Nepal.
So there's a Brit girl, a Kiwi girl and an Anerican and they're Skypeing family and all congenial and we share some chat. I have a natter with Bijay who is far too clever to be waiting table, and listen to the political situation here. He's teaching me some Nepali too. An American dude joins the volunteers at the next table and asks for a lemonade, Bijay suggests an Everest, the local beer and this guy goes off on one and tells him to 'fuck off.' he thinks Bijay is taking the piss because he drinks a soft drink.
I've never seem someone look so hurt, so when the girls head off to pay I go over and tell this dude his behaviour isn't cool, and they find it really offensive here - no one EVER swears - and maybe he should give them a tip.
We normally tip maybe 5 NR, he gave Bijay 500 NR, two weeks wages. Dude goes off and the girls cone back with a beer for me and tell me he's needed bringing down to earth for a while. Half hour later the dude us back, thanks me for "keeping him honest" and buys me another beer. I think the buddhists call it Karma, Bijay calls it "happy day". I call it "free beer" and everyone is happy.
So, anyway, I know this goes on a tad, but it's become my diary too. Comments appreciated at Facebook or here. What do you want to know about Nepal?
Monday 11 October 2010
See Emily Prey
This afternoon was spent hanging out within sprinting range of known toilet sites. I guess after a while anywhere you let your guard drop and maybe drink some iced chai where the waters not to so good, or the salads been washed in the family toilet. I knew it would happen at some point, and I'm sure once we get up to Ngozgumba things will get worse, 15000ft up and no sanitation. You dont get excitement like that at Chessington World of Adventures.
Anyway the sickness went as quick as it came on, so took the edge off with a beer and the guys at Northfields took 10% off the bill and gave me a ticket in Nepali that apparently gets me 40% off breakfast at a place in Laizupat, so I'll probably mooch up there in the morning. Breakfast for a quid, I'm in. As long as there's no queues. I don't queue for breakfast. Or information.
The approach to religion seems weird here, you find centuries old shrines stuffed in Walls behind all sorts of rubbish. The Hindu ones you notice because they're smeared with orange paint, and people touch their heads as they pass.
The Buddhist shrines are ostentatious really, they have socking great bells they ring which makes it suprising anything remains standing within a radius of a few hundred metres. Including me.
As we move up country we'll pass into Sherpa country and find the gompas of the Tibetan branch of Buddhism. Like alpine mountain communities they use horns that make vuvuzelas look like recorders, except here it's not to communicate it's to announce worship. God forbid if the world cup ever comes here. Or Buddha forgive.
There's a surprising amount of interaction with the locals in the nightlife, the American girls seem to love these Nepali guys, when my experience of India was totally the opposite. Obviously they know im unavailable, so they make do eoth the locals. There's one girl called Emily who I've seen in no end of cafes and bars with a succession of Nepalis. I'm guessing she's from Alabama or somewhere and she's letting her hair down, as well as her knickers, before heading back to the bible belt to marry Judd, watch NASCAR and eat grits.
Found the climbing wall at last, might swing by tomorrow, it's only 300 NR to play all day plus 350 NR to hire the gear, and a few rupees for a fella to belay you. They say it's the biggest wall in Nepal, but I've seen photos of the Lhotse Wall, and I'm sure the one here isn't 7500m, if it is I'd have seen it when we spent 30 minutes stacked waiting to land.
So homesickness came and went, I'm pretty settled into this lark now, but I miss the guys back home.
Fortunately the rickshaw injury isn't too bad, I'm lucky enough to have incredibly powerful calf muscles, and Bijay is probably at whatever the local equivalent of Zaschys is (remember them Ely folk) having his badly buckled wheel straightened.
Tommorrow, the monkey temple. Did I mention that place already?
Anyway the sickness went as quick as it came on, so took the edge off with a beer and the guys at Northfields took 10% off the bill and gave me a ticket in Nepali that apparently gets me 40% off breakfast at a place in Laizupat, so I'll probably mooch up there in the morning. Breakfast for a quid, I'm in. As long as there's no queues. I don't queue for breakfast. Or information.
The approach to religion seems weird here, you find centuries old shrines stuffed in Walls behind all sorts of rubbish. The Hindu ones you notice because they're smeared with orange paint, and people touch their heads as they pass.
The Buddhist shrines are ostentatious really, they have socking great bells they ring which makes it suprising anything remains standing within a radius of a few hundred metres. Including me.
As we move up country we'll pass into Sherpa country and find the gompas of the Tibetan branch of Buddhism. Like alpine mountain communities they use horns that make vuvuzelas look like recorders, except here it's not to communicate it's to announce worship. God forbid if the world cup ever comes here. Or Buddha forgive.
There's a surprising amount of interaction with the locals in the nightlife, the American girls seem to love these Nepali guys, when my experience of India was totally the opposite. Obviously they know im unavailable, so they make do eoth the locals. There's one girl called Emily who I've seen in no end of cafes and bars with a succession of Nepalis. I'm guessing she's from Alabama or somewhere and she's letting her hair down, as well as her knickers, before heading back to the bible belt to marry Judd, watch NASCAR and eat grits.
Found the climbing wall at last, might swing by tomorrow, it's only 300 NR to play all day plus 350 NR to hire the gear, and a few rupees for a fella to belay you. They say it's the biggest wall in Nepal, but I've seen photos of the Lhotse Wall, and I'm sure the one here isn't 7500m, if it is I'd have seen it when we spent 30 minutes stacked waiting to land.
So homesickness came and went, I'm pretty settled into this lark now, but I miss the guys back home.
Fortunately the rickshaw injury isn't too bad, I'm lucky enough to have incredibly powerful calf muscles, and Bijay is probably at whatever the local equivalent of Zaschys is (remember them Ely folk) having his badly buckled wheel straightened.
Tommorrow, the monkey temple. Did I mention that place already?
Into Stella Overdrive
Think I'm going to have a few ales tonight. I was pretty sick this morning after blogging, only just made it back to the room and painted the shower wall with cottage cheese and carrots, neither of which I've eaten for months.
Went back out for water and got directed to the sex and eye doctor who rinsed my eye and told me the pollution was what is making me sick. My eyes are clean but very sore and I've got a cough. We're at about 4000ft here, so it's harder to breathe anyway, without sucking in half four star petrol half air. The cloud was low this morning so I suppose it pinned the pollution into the valley that the city sits in.
Went to North Face and had a look round, sadly the prices are all European, but if you want it for practical purposes it's the only place to buy. There are hundreds of knock off stores but I wouldn't trust the goretex in the teeth of a Scottish storm.
On the way back I was being hassled for baby milk, it's an old scam, where you get taken to a certain shop buy mill for a very hungry baby, then when you've gone the dude takes back the milk and pockets half the cash.
Anyway I'm telling the dude I'm wise to his game when I step away and get smashed by a pedal rickshaw - Eco-friendly Manpower Transport by Bijay - and I've lost a bit of toenail and some skin off my calf. So back to trekking concern phaa and get my cut cleaned. Another 500 NR.
Maybe I am weary of the city, I've never been one for huge groups of people and half of all humanity lives here in a space that feels about 1 mile square.
I've been getting a bit worried about the 6200 metres I have yet to climb, the altitude sickness and the interesting flight in, both of which are fast approaching, but I think I'm going to be glad enough to get away from here to make them both worthwhile.
Still not sorted what I'm doing after Imja, but I'm probably going to Chitwan then Pokhara and come back for a few days at a luxury place near the airport ready to cone home to reality.
Went back out for water and got directed to the sex and eye doctor who rinsed my eye and told me the pollution was what is making me sick. My eyes are clean but very sore and I've got a cough. We're at about 4000ft here, so it's harder to breathe anyway, without sucking in half four star petrol half air. The cloud was low this morning so I suppose it pinned the pollution into the valley that the city sits in.
Went to North Face and had a look round, sadly the prices are all European, but if you want it for practical purposes it's the only place to buy. There are hundreds of knock off stores but I wouldn't trust the goretex in the teeth of a Scottish storm.
On the way back I was being hassled for baby milk, it's an old scam, where you get taken to a certain shop buy mill for a very hungry baby, then when you've gone the dude takes back the milk and pockets half the cash.
Anyway I'm telling the dude I'm wise to his game when I step away and get smashed by a pedal rickshaw - Eco-friendly Manpower Transport by Bijay - and I've lost a bit of toenail and some skin off my calf. So back to trekking concern phaa and get my cut cleaned. Another 500 NR.
Maybe I am weary of the city, I've never been one for huge groups of people and half of all humanity lives here in a space that feels about 1 mile square.
I've been getting a bit worried about the 6200 metres I have yet to climb, the altitude sickness and the interesting flight in, both of which are fast approaching, but I think I'm going to be glad enough to get away from here to make them both worthwhile.
Still not sorted what I'm doing after Imja, but I'm probably going to Chitwan then Pokhara and come back for a few days at a luxury place near the airport ready to cone home to reality.
Doesn't want one kilo, four kilo, one once hashish, or tiger balm, or a flute, guitar, singing bowl, pashmina, bone necklace, beautiful girl, kite, taxi, rickshaw, guide, trek, rafting holiday, canyoning, big bungee, dot on his forehead, drum, to watch a cremation, teach English, buy you some milk, give you one rupee, buy real North Face clothes, tin karabiner, mountain bike, motor bike, quiet room, spa. Justin wants a cup of english breakfast tea with cows milk and a cheddar cheese and branston sandwich, ta.
The Bark Side of The Moon
Morning readers. I don't think I'll tire of Kathmandu, but I'm certainly tired in Kathmandu. Thamel is not a place for relaxation and long lie ins.
I wish there was a way of conveying the noise and hubbub of the city as it wakes up, but I think the best way for you to discover for yourself would be to fall asleep slightly drunk with your head in a metal oil drum and ask a willing friend or volunteer to wake you by hitting it very hard with a metal baton, shouting and playing 'om mane padme hum' on a slightly distorted radio at volume 13. There you'd be about halfway there. Add the smell of incense, slightly festering turds, chai, coffee, frying yak cheese and urine and you could almost be here.
Last night we had the pleasure of a dog discovering that if it barked at 4am it echoed across the tightly packed buildings. It may have thought it was talking to another dog, and it's probably the only time it hears another dog bark as the noise of humanity never drops below a roar from 8am to 1am. Anyway, this conversation with itself lasted nearly half an hour. The same pattern of barking, over and over, amplified by the echo and sounding very much like a stuck CD of some bizarre 1970s birthing ritual. Remember whale songs on LP?
Fortunately I wasn't woken up by the cement mixer til about 0715, so it didn't disturb the sleep pattern too much. The hotel owner and the builder next door had a shouting match and they seemed to agree that mixing cement is definitely an early morning job and he would crack on only more enthusiastically than before.
Today I think I'll run the risk of the taxi dudes and go up to the monkey temple, which has still escaped me. They've all got the best taxi, and at least 6 of them can tell me London is very nice, although they're not sure about Richmond, or indeed Putney. Nor do they understand 'generally London is a shithole.' Very nice, very nice.
As nowhere has an address as such meeting people is a bit random, but I'm hoping to hook up with Phil later and see if we can work some plans out, he's off to Pokhara tomorrow. I'm just hoping he's ok, and not a guy I saw the other night being a bit of a plum in one of the bars with some poor Dutch girls.
So my two hash browns have arrived, on the obligatory two plates... Very nice, best hash sir. And if it's any consolation, readers, it's cold here today, maybe only 20 degrees. Might have to dig out the fleece and trousers.
And as I sign off I leave you with the interesting vision of a man on a bike towing a wooden cart onto which are strapped various pieces of fly ridden yak meat, and an open milk churn of blood. Burger anyone? Very best beef, deliver very fresh....
I wish there was a way of conveying the noise and hubbub of the city as it wakes up, but I think the best way for you to discover for yourself would be to fall asleep slightly drunk with your head in a metal oil drum and ask a willing friend or volunteer to wake you by hitting it very hard with a metal baton, shouting and playing 'om mane padme hum' on a slightly distorted radio at volume 13. There you'd be about halfway there. Add the smell of incense, slightly festering turds, chai, coffee, frying yak cheese and urine and you could almost be here.
Last night we had the pleasure of a dog discovering that if it barked at 4am it echoed across the tightly packed buildings. It may have thought it was talking to another dog, and it's probably the only time it hears another dog bark as the noise of humanity never drops below a roar from 8am to 1am. Anyway, this conversation with itself lasted nearly half an hour. The same pattern of barking, over and over, amplified by the echo and sounding very much like a stuck CD of some bizarre 1970s birthing ritual. Remember whale songs on LP?
Fortunately I wasn't woken up by the cement mixer til about 0715, so it didn't disturb the sleep pattern too much. The hotel owner and the builder next door had a shouting match and they seemed to agree that mixing cement is definitely an early morning job and he would crack on only more enthusiastically than before.
Today I think I'll run the risk of the taxi dudes and go up to the monkey temple, which has still escaped me. They've all got the best taxi, and at least 6 of them can tell me London is very nice, although they're not sure about Richmond, or indeed Putney. Nor do they understand 'generally London is a shithole.' Very nice, very nice.
As nowhere has an address as such meeting people is a bit random, but I'm hoping to hook up with Phil later and see if we can work some plans out, he's off to Pokhara tomorrow. I'm just hoping he's ok, and not a guy I saw the other night being a bit of a plum in one of the bars with some poor Dutch girls.
So my two hash browns have arrived, on the obligatory two plates... Very nice, best hash sir. And if it's any consolation, readers, it's cold here today, maybe only 20 degrees. Might have to dig out the fleece and trousers.
And as I sign off I leave you with the interesting vision of a man on a bike towing a wooden cart onto which are strapped various pieces of fly ridden yak meat, and an open milk churn of blood. Burger anyone? Very best beef, deliver very fresh....
Sunday 10 October 2010
Proper bo, I tell thee
Ok, so I'm wondering if it's cruel to teach people strange phrases, or if an English guy asks a waiter if the food is good and he replies it's 'proper bo' it will seal the deal. The jury is out.
So today, maybe some homesickness with it being a weekend, I miss the rugby scores, the Sunday papers, little Miss Blore, and all that. I also stepped in to calm down an over harrases German when he got a bit off with a waiter over the amount of mint in his tea. Something similar happened in India. Maybe they expect more, or maybe I accept less? Hard to say.
There was an outbreak of disuassion re the motorbike, but..... They're cheap, and it's a cool way to see the KTM valley. Hmmmmm.
Put a notice up today to see if I could pick up a companion for Chitwan or Pokhara to get the price down and got 3 replies in an hour, so I discounted the German because I'm a racialist and the Swedish girl, because it wouldn't be right Bernie, would it? So I'm meeting a dude tomorrow for coffee to see if we can dovetail, push the envelope, catch the ball and run with it.
Power went out tonight, apparently, ad the waiter told me, the government were load shedding. All I can say it must be an enthusiastic business to knock put all the lights in the KTM valley.
Had a nice chat with a waiter called Bijay in Northfields who thinks he is privileged to have his job, even though I see him there at 8am and still at 10pm, because his tips make him 120 NR a day, which is about the National average. He's doing his guiding qualifications on the money he saves, so he can guide near his home village. So maybe I'll come back and walk Dhalguari as his first client.
There's still an obvious distinction here with the various Nepali tribes, the Newars are the former ruling class and wear their hair distinctively, the Tibetans are mainly refugees (safest to leave that subject there), and are or appear to be shifty and difficult; the Ghorkas are obvious and mostly work as security or police - and there are numerous others - all of whom have a definite characteristic.
A Swiss girl on her own here needed some help today, it seems crazy that after a few days I could take her where she needed to go, and shoo off the trekking touts so she could get to her hotel before she had a breakdown.
So to bed, had a beer with Jenny who is staying at Bhouda Monastrey to fight her demons, and had Bern here ages, it helps to speak to someone who's been here a while, it saves making all the tourist mistakes.
So today, maybe some homesickness with it being a weekend, I miss the rugby scores, the Sunday papers, little Miss Blore, and all that. I also stepped in to calm down an over harrases German when he got a bit off with a waiter over the amount of mint in his tea. Something similar happened in India. Maybe they expect more, or maybe I accept less? Hard to say.
There was an outbreak of disuassion re the motorbike, but..... They're cheap, and it's a cool way to see the KTM valley. Hmmmmm.
Put a notice up today to see if I could pick up a companion for Chitwan or Pokhara to get the price down and got 3 replies in an hour, so I discounted the German because I'm a racialist and the Swedish girl, because it wouldn't be right Bernie, would it? So I'm meeting a dude tomorrow for coffee to see if we can dovetail, push the envelope, catch the ball and run with it.
Power went out tonight, apparently, ad the waiter told me, the government were load shedding. All I can say it must be an enthusiastic business to knock put all the lights in the KTM valley.
Had a nice chat with a waiter called Bijay in Northfields who thinks he is privileged to have his job, even though I see him there at 8am and still at 10pm, because his tips make him 120 NR a day, which is about the National average. He's doing his guiding qualifications on the money he saves, so he can guide near his home village. So maybe I'll come back and walk Dhalguari as his first client.
There's still an obvious distinction here with the various Nepali tribes, the Newars are the former ruling class and wear their hair distinctively, the Tibetans are mainly refugees (safest to leave that subject there), and are or appear to be shifty and difficult; the Ghorkas are obvious and mostly work as security or police - and there are numerous others - all of whom have a definite characteristic.
A Swiss girl on her own here needed some help today, it seems crazy that after a few days I could take her where she needed to go, and shoo off the trekking touts so she could get to her hotel before she had a breakdown.
So to bed, had a beer with Jenny who is staying at Bhouda Monastrey to fight her demons, and had Bern here ages, it helps to speak to someone who's been here a while, it saves making all the tourist mistakes.
I'm loving the new hotel, woke up to what sounded like a thunderstorm at 8am, so didn't venture out. Turns out to be the laundry on the roof. The electrics are also fascinating, it's certainly the first time I've seen a down pipe used to support cabling. Wonder if that'll catch on back home?
Had breakfast of hash browns - very good hash sir - baked beans and toast. Unfortunately it's complicated to explain you want it all on one plate and at the same time. Anyway, the bowl of cold baked beans starter is on it's way to a Harvester near you.
To be fair the food is excellent, if eccentric in places, and pretty cheap - a 12inch pizza is £3 or so. There's not many places you can get 12" for less than a fiver in the west. However Yak milk and yak cheese are an acquired taste, and I'm not entirely convinced last nights mozzarella was really that. Big fan of the Tibetan bread and Momos though. Although it's a little disconcerting when someone jumps out of a doorway shouting 'momo' at you, I thought it was an insult. 'i'm definitely not my friend, I've got a girlfriend.'
Went for a walk today, got lost in a pretty rough area, when I realised I hadn't seen another westerner for ages. Amazingly I stumbled on Durbar Square a few minutes later, which is probably the principal attraction here in KTM. Lots of 'guides' and holy men who want 100 NR for doing nothing obvious. The temples and palaces are something else though, and I spent a nice hour just sitting on the steps watching the world go by, and repeating 'pardaina, pardaina... Insert chess set, flugelhorn, sacrifice goat...' here. Quite why I'd want to sacrifice a goat I don't know. I asked if I could marry one and he wandered away.
Also strange was the Indian guy who wanted to polish my sandals. They're suede and plastic, but if I hadn't needed them it might have been worth 10 NR to watch him try.
A rickshaws dude at Durbar told me his cart was a helicopter during Dasani the upcoming festival. I explained we have strict regulations on flying rickshaws in England as they're a menace and kill seagulls. Spread a little knowledge....
Also got accosted by some dude with a sick child. Oh brother very sick. Luckily I had just walked past the free hospital, so imagine his surprise when I walked him there and put him in the queue. I saw him on my way back still hassling tourists and the cheeky fecker waved to me!
Had to do some shopping today, there are lots of soaps guaranteed to lighten your skin, shampoo to make your hair blond and enough chemicals to make your toes curl. Haven't shaved since I've been here but it seems to work as a symbol of someone who's already been trekking, so the touts have started to leave me alone.
I might get round to going to the monkey temple tomorrow, it's Sunday the day of rest today, and I'm resting. I've got to fulfil a promise later of helping some kids with their English, arranged with a charity guy I met yesterday. They bring a newspaper and we read it together and explain as we go on. So I get the news, very slowly, and they get some new English.
Then I might hire a motorbike, they look great fun, the Hero Honda 600 seems to be the weapon of choice for scattering crowds.
Ps if any of my loyal readers have got better comms than me can they be kind enough to check the prices at Island Resort in Chitwan for two nights.
Namaste.
Had breakfast of hash browns - very good hash sir - baked beans and toast. Unfortunately it's complicated to explain you want it all on one plate and at the same time. Anyway, the bowl of cold baked beans starter is on it's way to a Harvester near you.
To be fair the food is excellent, if eccentric in places, and pretty cheap - a 12inch pizza is £3 or so. There's not many places you can get 12" for less than a fiver in the west. However Yak milk and yak cheese are an acquired taste, and I'm not entirely convinced last nights mozzarella was really that. Big fan of the Tibetan bread and Momos though. Although it's a little disconcerting when someone jumps out of a doorway shouting 'momo' at you, I thought it was an insult. 'i'm definitely not my friend, I've got a girlfriend.'
Went for a walk today, got lost in a pretty rough area, when I realised I hadn't seen another westerner for ages. Amazingly I stumbled on Durbar Square a few minutes later, which is probably the principal attraction here in KTM. Lots of 'guides' and holy men who want 100 NR for doing nothing obvious. The temples and palaces are something else though, and I spent a nice hour just sitting on the steps watching the world go by, and repeating 'pardaina, pardaina... Insert chess set, flugelhorn, sacrifice goat...' here. Quite why I'd want to sacrifice a goat I don't know. I asked if I could marry one and he wandered away.
Also strange was the Indian guy who wanted to polish my sandals. They're suede and plastic, but if I hadn't needed them it might have been worth 10 NR to watch him try.
A rickshaws dude at Durbar told me his cart was a helicopter during Dasani the upcoming festival. I explained we have strict regulations on flying rickshaws in England as they're a menace and kill seagulls. Spread a little knowledge....
Also got accosted by some dude with a sick child. Oh brother very sick. Luckily I had just walked past the free hospital, so imagine his surprise when I walked him there and put him in the queue. I saw him on my way back still hassling tourists and the cheeky fecker waved to me!
Had to do some shopping today, there are lots of soaps guaranteed to lighten your skin, shampoo to make your hair blond and enough chemicals to make your toes curl. Haven't shaved since I've been here but it seems to work as a symbol of someone who's already been trekking, so the touts have started to leave me alone.
I might get round to going to the monkey temple tomorrow, it's Sunday the day of rest today, and I'm resting. I've got to fulfil a promise later of helping some kids with their English, arranged with a charity guy I met yesterday. They bring a newspaper and we read it together and explain as we go on. So I get the news, very slowly, and they get some new English.
Then I might hire a motorbike, they look great fun, the Hero Honda 600 seems to be the weapon of choice for scattering crowds.
Ps if any of my loyal readers have got better comms than me can they be kind enough to check the prices at Island Resort in Chitwan for two nights.
Namaste.
Saturday 9 October 2010
You have to laugh
So I get back from jail and have a beer and some guy tries to flog me a kukri. My excuses for not wanting things are getting more bizarre, and no one questions it. Or they thing I'm one I'd the many crazy people who wash up here from the west.
So I own a tiger that I can milk for balm, I already have two kukris, and three is a waste for two arms.I don't need mountain flights because I already had three...
So it goes on. Anyway the kukri guy harrases me outside New Orleans for about the fifth time and I explain if he doesn't go away he'll have two arseholes. Later he's back with some other guy and they seem to be reputable guys, next thing I'm moving hotels to somewhere which isn't behind the bar of the local karaoke for cheaper rate, recommended in lonely planet, and I'm offered what seems to be a good deal for Chitwan and Pokhara, 7 nights travel and accommodation with food in Chitwan, £140.
Hello Mr, you have bad day. I am ok with just one arsehole.
So I own a tiger that I can milk for balm, I already have two kukris, and three is a waste for two arms.I don't need mountain flights because I already had three...
So it goes on. Anyway the kukri guy harrases me outside New Orleans for about the fifth time and I explain if he doesn't go away he'll have two arseholes. Later he's back with some other guy and they seem to be reputable guys, next thing I'm moving hotels to somewhere which isn't behind the bar of the local karaoke for cheaper rate, recommended in lonely planet, and I'm offered what seems to be a good deal for Chitwan and Pokhara, 7 nights travel and accommodation with food in Chitwan, £140.
Hello Mr, you have bad day. I am ok with just one arsehole.
A morning with the boys in blue
So I got arrested. Spent an interesting couple of hours being processed at Downtown by the Feds. I took a photo of a motorbike, which had a wall in the background. The wall was the US embassy.
Anyway they found my police ID card so things chilled out then and after deleting the incriminating picture, having my mugshot taken we all had chai and they gave me a lift to a local tourist attraction.
They're all very polite and uniform thought it was hilarious that I told the plain clothes cop that arrested me that I didn't need any tiger balm.
There are lots of prohibited places, but there aren't always signs. So we live and learn.
Chilling out for lunch with panini and masala chai in the Garden of Dreams, a former Field Marshal's palace with a lovely garden. I'll ask before I take any photos.
Anyway they found my police ID card so things chilled out then and after deleting the incriminating picture, having my mugshot taken we all had chai and they gave me a lift to a local tourist attraction.
They're all very polite and uniform thought it was hilarious that I told the plain clothes cop that arrested me that I didn't need any tiger balm.
There are lots of prohibited places, but there aren't always signs. So we live and learn.
Chilling out for lunch with panini and masala chai in the Garden of Dreams, a former Field Marshal's palace with a lovely garden. I'll ask before I take any photos.
Hot in the city
So last night in the new place taught me I need to check for the bar opposite before I take a room... And the motorbike park - the bikers here are mentalists, and walking down the road is an exercise in avoidance tactics.
There was some kind of fight last night, some American dude shouting 'motherf@cker' at some Nepali guy who didn't really seem to understand the concept, and when you see the old women you'll understand why.
So, breakfast then maybe a hike up to the monkey temple, I also need to sort out accommodation for when I get back from Imja. Everything takes a lot longer here than you'd necessarily want, but fighting it burns your energy. Coffee takes ages because it's 'fresh, sir.. Very fresh, best coffee...'
There's no USB ports on any computers, so no pics yet, I'll work that one out tomorrow, but it looks like burning CDs might be the only way.
Ok, the freshest coffee outside of the cafe I went to yesterday is finally here. Very fresh, very nice. Enjoy.
There was some kind of fight last night, some American dude shouting 'motherf@cker' at some Nepali guy who didn't really seem to understand the concept, and when you see the old women you'll understand why.
So, breakfast then maybe a hike up to the monkey temple, I also need to sort out accommodation for when I get back from Imja. Everything takes a lot longer here than you'd necessarily want, but fighting it burns your energy. Coffee takes ages because it's 'fresh, sir.. Very fresh, best coffee...'
There's no USB ports on any computers, so no pics yet, I'll work that one out tomorrow, but it looks like burning CDs might be the only way.
Ok, the freshest coffee outside of the cafe I went to yesterday is finally here. Very fresh, very nice. Enjoy.
Friday 8 October 2010
Hangover
Just hanging out in Thamel today, had to find a new hotel this morning, felt pretty hungover so paid a small boy to lug my suitcase around. Always like to put something back into the community.
Got pretty drunk on Everest beer last night with a couple of Spanish guys, Seve and the other one, fell back into KGH at 2am, after a good night at the Jesse James Bar.
I'm now in New Orleans, a cool jazz place recommended by lonely planet, on the chai and Lassis today, anything else will kill me.
Woke up to a massive mossie bite on my back, it's at least a foot across, maybe more. I don't think there's malaria in KTM... I'm sure I read that somewhere.
Got pretty drunk on Everest beer last night with a couple of Spanish guys, Seve and the other one, fell back into KGH at 2am, after a good night at the Jesse James Bar.
I'm now in New Orleans, a cool jazz place recommended by lonely planet, on the chai and Lassis today, anything else will kill me.
Woke up to a massive mossie bite on my back, it's at least a foot across, maybe more. I don't think there's malaria in KTM... I'm sure I read that somewhere.
Thursday 7 October 2010
Monday 4 October 2010
Ready for the off.
In a little over behind 24hrs I'm off. The weekend is over, the 40th birthday me, must say I'm relieved about that. Had a great time, my sister and Bernie arranged a great suprise party with the people closest to me, including Mr John Harvey, a very close friend, although he does give me some spectacular headaches.
It was strange yesterday evening watching adverts for TV shows that will be over and forgotten by the time I get home, seeing upcoming news items that will be ancient history by the time I board my flight. The spending review will be over, and we'll have some idea what happens at work, how many colleagues who have been sweating over job news since the election will be joining the job centre queues. Sad times for some no doubt.
Picked up my cash today, I'm very rich in Nepali terms, with rooms at around 400 NR a night and an exchange rate which gives me 120 NR to the pound my savings should stretch enough for the odd night of luxury in between the nights in dorms and tea houses. The last couple of nights will defintely be spent in luxury at the Last Resort, with a climbing facility and a spa of it's own. I'll avoid the world's highest bungee, me being scared of heights and all that!
Hopefully there will be a bit of an update from Kathmandu in 48hrs or so.
It was strange yesterday evening watching adverts for TV shows that will be over and forgotten by the time I get home, seeing upcoming news items that will be ancient history by the time I board my flight. The spending review will be over, and we'll have some idea what happens at work, how many colleagues who have been sweating over job news since the election will be joining the job centre queues. Sad times for some no doubt.
Picked up my cash today, I'm very rich in Nepali terms, with rooms at around 400 NR a night and an exchange rate which gives me 120 NR to the pound my savings should stretch enough for the odd night of luxury in between the nights in dorms and tea houses. The last couple of nights will defintely be spent in luxury at the Last Resort, with a climbing facility and a spa of it's own. I'll avoid the world's highest bungee, me being scared of heights and all that!
Hopefully there will be a bit of an update from Kathmandu in 48hrs or so.
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