All packed now, and hopefully well below my 23kg limit. Hopefully. It's not been easy, I'm packing for mountaineering, but also need a few bits for a week in the Chitwan region, which is jungle. I'd look a right berk trying to ride and elephant through the middle of the jungle in a down jacket and mountaineering boots, but don't have the space for a pith helmet either.
I do have doubts as well, am I fit enough for this? Have I overreached myself? I guess this is what it is all about, testing myself against the biggest hills in the world. If I don't summit it doesn't really matter, however disappointing it might be, it's not about destination, it's about the journey, well, that's what I keep telling myself.
This weekend I have the little matter of my birthday to celebrate, so I am looking forward to that, and spending some time with my long suffering girlfriend, Bernie, who's put up with a lot of mess and stress this week. Been trying to get Skype sorted on my mobile, and the laptop so I can call her on her birthday, which is in the middle of the trip. It all seems a bit complicated, and I'm sure I'll end up connected to Dominos pizza or something. I don't get on so well with that sort of thing.
Saw the doctor, who seemed to be about 15 years old and wasn't sure about prescribing me some Diamox to carry as an emergency precaution, but he was kind enough to give me his personal email address and email an expedition doctor he knows for some advice. I will just pick some up off the shelf in Kathmandu, which just means I'll have to fathom out my own dose, should the worst happen.
Thursday 30 September 2010
Monday 27 September 2010
Time Running Out.....
Just finished Steve House's book Beyond the Mountain that won this year's Boardman-Tasker prize. The internet ban at work means that I zipped through it in two shifts on two quiet nights. Aweosme read, really gripping in places, and nausea inducing when he climbs 1500 feet of vertical ice in the time it took me to walk up Scafell Pike.
There's an outbreak of cholera in Kathmandu, so I've had to rush out and pick up some iodine, not that I'll be drinking out of the taps, but there may be no option up high, and it's quicker than boiling everything, so much to do, so little time. Even though I've been planning this for two years!
Finished up all the medical background now, there's a lot to remember about all the things that can go wrong at altitude, and how to tell if it's serious or not. I'm looking forward to High Altitude Flatus Expulsion the most, forget the headaches vomiting and hallucianting - burping and farting on alternate steps is a something I can already relate to.
So, I know the team now, Pasang emailed to say we're a team of 7, plus Sherpas, from Norway, Australia, Italy and the US. A good mix, and not too much of an issue with the language. Looking forward to the team night in Kathmandu on the 13th.
Wednesday 22 September 2010
Summit Logs
Just been checking summit logs on the net for Imja, and the latest, from pre-monsoon says that 5 of the 6 Americans who tried for the top suffered from severe HACE, but all got down safely.
It's interesting really, because despite the wealth of information available about cerebral and pulmonary oedema at high altitude they appear to have tried to summit in a day, allowing little time for acclimatising, other than their walk-in, which was probably a few days out from Lukla.
The benefit of the circuitous route we are taking means that by the time we reach Imja we'll have been to 5500 metres twice, and should be in prime condition to summit.
The author of the entry I read notes that you need to be in "in great physical/athletic shape", so maybe tonight's fish supper wasn't such a great idea. That said, I'm a big fan of the great British climber Dougal Haston's theory that the walk-in is where you gain your strength and fitness for the summit. Dougal climbed Annapurna without oxygen, and summited Everest on the 'Everest the Hard Way' expedition.
So four more shifts at work, then let the packing begin.
It's interesting really, because despite the wealth of information available about cerebral and pulmonary oedema at high altitude they appear to have tried to summit in a day, allowing little time for acclimatising, other than their walk-in, which was probably a few days out from Lukla.
The benefit of the circuitous route we are taking means that by the time we reach Imja we'll have been to 5500 metres twice, and should be in prime condition to summit.
The author of the entry I read notes that you need to be in "in great physical/athletic shape", so maybe tonight's fish supper wasn't such a great idea. That said, I'm a big fan of the great British climber Dougal Haston's theory that the walk-in is where you gain your strength and fitness for the summit. Dougal climbed Annapurna without oxygen, and summited Everest on the 'Everest the Hard Way' expedition.
So four more shifts at work, then let the packing begin.
Monday 20 September 2010
Lukla
To get up to the Solu-Khumbu and the Sagamartha National Park, the easiest way is to fly into Lukla, landing at the Tenzing-Hillary Airport. The height of the runway, and it's length mean that only helicopters and STOL planes land here. It's very busy as it's the only airport in the whole Sherpa region, and shaves a week off the walk-in time for mountaineers aiming for several of the world's highest peaks, as well as the trekking traffic.
Lukla airport is interesting to say the least.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqgZvb37NX0
Lukla airport is interesting to say the least.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqgZvb37NX0
Saturday 18 September 2010
The Mountain
Imja rises to an elevation of 20,285 feet, and it was first climbed in 1953 by a British team as preparation for climbing Everest. Tenzing Norgay, who, along with Sir Ed Hillary later topped out on the first ascent of Everest, was one of the members who successfully summited. Over the years it has become one of the most popular climbing sites in the world. That doesn’t mean it’s an easy climb, though. Quite the contrary.
To climb Imja, one has the option of starting from a base camp at 5,087 metres (16,690 ft) called Pareshaya Gyab and starting the climb between 2 and 3 am. Another popular option is to ascend to High Camp at around 5,600 metres (18,400 ft) to reduce the amount of effort and time needed for summit day. However, adequate water supply and concerns about sleeping at a higher altitude may dictate starting from base camp.
To summit Imja climbers need to overcome very narrow ridges and extremely steep slopes. It is here that climbing skills and techniques are vital. We will make use of scrambling techniques to make it to the main ice field. The ice field is approximately 200 meters, which in turn will lead us to the headwall, 300ft of 55/60 degree rock and ice, ascended with fixed ropes. This is followed by a narrow and airy summit ridge, with interest provided by 1000ft drops on either side of the knife edge arete.
Once we have summited, we hope to be rewarded by breathtaking views of the Everest Himalya. On top, while Mount Everest is a mere ten kilometres away to the north, the view will be blocked by the massive wall of Lhotse, towering 2,300 m (7,500 ft) above our summit. We'll be higher than the highest mountains of Europe and North America, and yet dwarfed by the Everest group in front of us.
The peak is part of the south ridge of Lhotse Shar and the main land forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise to the north of the summits of Nuptse, Lhotse, Middle Peak and Lhotse Shar. Cho Polu and Makalu lie to the east of the Island Peak. Baruntse, Amphu and the beautiful Ama Dablam lie to the south
Imja Tse has proven to be unforgiving in the past. Peakware.com includes an Imja Tse summit log that reports, among other things:
To climb Imja, one has the option of starting from a base camp at 5,087 metres (16,690 ft) called Pareshaya Gyab and starting the climb between 2 and 3 am. Another popular option is to ascend to High Camp at around 5,600 metres (18,400 ft) to reduce the amount of effort and time needed for summit day. However, adequate water supply and concerns about sleeping at a higher altitude may dictate starting from base camp.
To summit Imja climbers need to overcome very narrow ridges and extremely steep slopes. It is here that climbing skills and techniques are vital. We will make use of scrambling techniques to make it to the main ice field. The ice field is approximately 200 meters, which in turn will lead us to the headwall, 300ft of 55/60 degree rock and ice, ascended with fixed ropes. This is followed by a narrow and airy summit ridge, with interest provided by 1000ft drops on either side of the knife edge arete.
Once we have summited, we hope to be rewarded by breathtaking views of the Everest Himalya. On top, while Mount Everest is a mere ten kilometres away to the north, the view will be blocked by the massive wall of Lhotse, towering 2,300 m (7,500 ft) above our summit. We'll be higher than the highest mountains of Europe and North America, and yet dwarfed by the Everest group in front of us.
The peak is part of the south ridge of Lhotse Shar and the main land forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise to the north of the summits of Nuptse, Lhotse, Middle Peak and Lhotse Shar. Cho Polu and Makalu lie to the east of the Island Peak. Baruntse, Amphu and the beautiful Ama Dablam lie to the south
Imja Tse has proven to be unforgiving in the past. Peakware.com includes an Imja Tse summit log that reports, among other things:
- “The two first parties in [a friend’s] travel group were killed in an avalanche…”—Eva Nilsson
- “Turned back due to extreme avalanche danger around 18,000 ft.”—Bretton Adams
Friday 17 September 2010
Doctors
Reading up on acute mountain sickness today. It's a real issue at heights of around 14000ft and above, when the air becomes thinner and harder to breathe. While the oxygen content of the air remains the same, the air itself is under much less pressue and it becomes difficult to draw in enough to supply the body's needs, which are increased due to the exertion of climbing.
Everyone gets AMS of some description, generally just the headache and loss of appetite and this can be treated with Diamox. Diamox has the happy side effect of making you want to urinate every couple of hours, so get rid of the headache so you can sleep and you're woken up by your bodily functions anyway, and crawling out of a sleeping bag into the freezing night air is never much fun. Along with this I am planning to haul a load of throat sweets along with me to combat the 'Khumbu cough', bought on by the harsh air, and the constant companion of the high altitude mountaineer. The cough has been known to be so severe that ribs break, and throats tear, so it's important to be prepared.
AMS shouldn't be underestimated, the effects of altitude can effect even those who have been strong at height before, there is no test for prelediction for it and the signs that show it is moving into the more serious and life threatening stages are not always easy to read, often until treatment becomes an urgent and immediate need.
As less oxygen eneters the blood, the blood thickens by way of producing more red blood cells. The blood can be become like a sludge and find it harder to move around the body. The AMS headache can become a serious emergency as the brain swells in response to the lack of oxygen and cerbeal odema sets in, alternatively, or alongside this, the lungs can fill with fluid in a condition known as pulmonary odema, essentially drowning in your own fluids.
The only cure is to descend fast, to an altitude where the body can respond normally to its environment and improve the oxygen uptake.
We're well prepared with a Gammow bag, essentially a bivibag which the patient climbs inside and which can be sealed and then the internal air pressure is increased to replicate conditions as at a lower altitude, hopefully encouraging a recovery to a state well enough to descend without assistance.
When I was having my jabs in preparation for the trip, I asked the nurse about AMS, and I'm seeing the doctor next week to pick up some Diamox, just in case. Some people take it as a matter of routine as soon as they get high, but not all doctors recommend that.
The nurse's advice? Don't wear aftershave in the jungle beacuse it attracts mosquitos.
Everyone gets AMS of some description, generally just the headache and loss of appetite and this can be treated with Diamox. Diamox has the happy side effect of making you want to urinate every couple of hours, so get rid of the headache so you can sleep and you're woken up by your bodily functions anyway, and crawling out of a sleeping bag into the freezing night air is never much fun. Along with this I am planning to haul a load of throat sweets along with me to combat the 'Khumbu cough', bought on by the harsh air, and the constant companion of the high altitude mountaineer. The cough has been known to be so severe that ribs break, and throats tear, so it's important to be prepared.
AMS shouldn't be underestimated, the effects of altitude can effect even those who have been strong at height before, there is no test for prelediction for it and the signs that show it is moving into the more serious and life threatening stages are not always easy to read, often until treatment becomes an urgent and immediate need.
As less oxygen eneters the blood, the blood thickens by way of producing more red blood cells. The blood can be become like a sludge and find it harder to move around the body. The AMS headache can become a serious emergency as the brain swells in response to the lack of oxygen and cerbeal odema sets in, alternatively, or alongside this, the lungs can fill with fluid in a condition known as pulmonary odema, essentially drowning in your own fluids.
The only cure is to descend fast, to an altitude where the body can respond normally to its environment and improve the oxygen uptake.
We're well prepared with a Gammow bag, essentially a bivibag which the patient climbs inside and which can be sealed and then the internal air pressure is increased to replicate conditions as at a lower altitude, hopefully encouraging a recovery to a state well enough to descend without assistance.
When I was having my jabs in preparation for the trip, I asked the nurse about AMS, and I'm seeing the doctor next week to pick up some Diamox, just in case. Some people take it as a matter of routine as soon as they get high, but not all doctors recommend that.
The nurse's advice? Don't wear aftershave in the jungle beacuse it attracts mosquitos.
Thursday 16 September 2010
Preparations
In three weeks I'm heading off to Nepal for a couple of months, and this is where I'll update my progress, when and if I have access to t'internet. I'm already training hard for a life devoid of online services at work, going to shops and buying things in person, using coins, reading books made out of paper, that sort of thing, but hopefully there will be opportunities to keep the blog live and interesting in the more enlightened environment of the world's newest republic.
On the 14th October we head off to Lukla and then up to Gokyo to climb Gokyo Ri, (5357m) and thereafter onward to Cho Oyu basecamp before attempting a crossing of the 5500m Cho La pass onto the main Everest trail. After climbing Kala Pattar it's up the Imja Glacier for a two day ice climbing refresher then the push for the summit of Imja Tse (6169m). Imja features a headwall of about 300m in height at around 5800m which the climbing leader tells us is short of snow and ice this year, so the ascent will be more technical than in previous years, pushing the Alpine Grade to TD (tres difficile). Hopefully summit day will be sometime around October 31st.
After this it's a few days with the orphaned children of Sherpas in Kathmandu, then a couple fo weeks exploring the Annapurna and then south to Chitwan and the Terai region. Then finally home on 25 November.
On the 14th October we head off to Lukla and then up to Gokyo to climb Gokyo Ri, (5357m) and thereafter onward to Cho Oyu basecamp before attempting a crossing of the 5500m Cho La pass onto the main Everest trail. After climbing Kala Pattar it's up the Imja Glacier for a two day ice climbing refresher then the push for the summit of Imja Tse (6169m). Imja features a headwall of about 300m in height at around 5800m which the climbing leader tells us is short of snow and ice this year, so the ascent will be more technical than in previous years, pushing the Alpine Grade to TD (tres difficile). Hopefully summit day will be sometime around October 31st.
After this it's a few days with the orphaned children of Sherpas in Kathmandu, then a couple fo weeks exploring the Annapurna and then south to Chitwan and the Terai region. Then finally home on 25 November.
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